TRAVEL: Bozeman’s Big Skies, Scenic Beauty & Photowalk

Bozeman's Hyalite Reservoir

Jefferson Graham photographing a sunset in Bozeman, Montana for the PhotowalksTV series

I started PhotowalksTV to help people cut to the chase when they arrived somewhere with their phone camera. Instead of trying to figure out where the best places for local photography were when you got to town, what if you could watch a video and get a sense of it before you arrived?

Over the years, I’ve now taken you to some of my all-time favorite places (from A to Z—Atlanta to Zion National Park!) for virtual Photowalks, and have covered a lot of California, France, Spain, Portugal, Italy, Canada and Mexico and most of the great West.

With the Bozeman episode, we have now filled that notch—every Western state is now represented. (If you’re counting, that’s California, Oregon, Washington, Nevada, Arizona, New Mexico, Colorado, Wyoming, Idaho and now Montana.) 

If you’ve watched the Bozeman Photowalks episode, hopefully I’ve whet your appetite for a visit to the Last Best Place, and perhaps you’d like to go this summer or fall. So read on!

Bozeman is one of the greats. It’s hard to top the feeling of those lonely open roads, big skies, fun downtown, friendly people, proximity to amazing national parks, and of course, all those huckleberry treats!

If I had any regret about this trip, it’s that we didn’t spend enough time in Bozeman—and make it to Missoula and Glacier National Park as well. There’s always next summer.

Bozeman, Montana Main Street

So if you go, what you need to know about visiting Bozeman:

Why visit: Bozeman is a small town in the southern part of the state that happens to be surrounded by some amazing natural beauty. You have the fun, historic downtown that dates back to the early 1900s when it was a silver mining town, and buildings that are still standing from those times. Plus, it’s a college town and the influence of the young brings better food choices and a hip vibe.

Your Bozeman Virtual Photowalk:

Downtown

Begin your tour at the historic Hotel Baxter (105 W. Main Street) which is now a residential and office complex, as well as a thriving bar and home to the Ted’s Montana Grill. Walk inside and marvel at the art deco and details of the 1900s era workmanship.

Walk down Main, which extends for six blocks, where you will end up at the Western Cafe (more on that in a minute.)

As you stroll down the street, your will pass the great old buildings (zoom in for the markers and details with your phone camera) western and outdoor stores, a big hardware shop, bookshops and many cafes and restaurants. (See where to eat below for suggestions.)

Peet’s Hill in Bozeman, Montana

Peet’s Hill

Just a few blocks from downtown, (you’ll want to drive to get there) is where you can see panoramic views of Bozeman, the University of Montana, and the surrounding areas. This is a fantastic spot for sunsets, hiking and biking. We went there every night during our visit and ended up at the Town and Country Market down the street before they closed at 10 p.m. for a locally produced Huckleberry Ice Cream Sandwich from Wilcoxson’s.

Bridger Bowl

Drive here, park and hike up to the iconic “M” painted on the side of the mountain, reachable via a scenic hour-long hike.

Bozeman’s Hyalite Reservoir

Hyalite Reservoir

Another great drive will take you to Hyalite Reservoir. Perfect for paddleboarding, kayaking, and photography, this spot offers great mountain views reflected in pristine waters. Highly recommended.

Downtown Livingston in Montana.

Livingston

The drive is a half hour away from Bozeman, but it will take you less time to get there than the Hyalite trip. This is a charming town with a Main Street reminiscent of the past and definitely worth driving to. It’s a photographer’s dream with buildings even older than Bozeman. It’s like stepping into a Twilight Zone episode.

Yellowstone National Park

The Gardiner entrance is 90 minutes away, and while there are five entrances to the huge park, this is the classic, as it brings you right up to the Old Faithful, the natural phenomena which erupts about every hour. Check with the Visitor’s Center for exact times. If you want to stay closer to Yellowstone, try Chico Hot Springs, a rustic old resort by the hot springs, which is about 45 minutes drive from the park. Gardiner, right by the entrance, has dozens of chain motels.

How to get to Bozeman

Several airlines fly direct to the Bozeman Yellowstone Airport, making it one of the easier locations in Montana to fly in and out from. Despite being the 4th largest city in the state, with just over 50,000 residents, the Bozeman airport attracts more passengers than any other airport in the state, with over 1 million flying in. Airlines like American, Alaska and Delta fly direct to Bozeman from cities like Los Angeles, New York, Chicago, Seattle, Denver and Minneapolis.

Road Trip

The drive from Los Angeles is about 18 hours, vs. 6 from Salt Lake City or 10 from Denver or Seattle. But what a drive! If you do the Salt Lake City route, you get to go straight through Jackson Hole and the Tetons, and Yellowstone National Park en route to Bozeman.

Where to stay

We fell in love with the retro Sapphire Motel (310 N 7th Ave) when we were in Bozeman. With its vintage 1950s era, Holiday Inn inspired neon masterpiece of a sign, it looks like it stepped out of the pages of an old 1950s book. Walk into the lobby and an old box style television beams black and white westerns. The rooms are old and funky, yet with modern comfort. The motel is a 15 walk from downtown. We paid $150 a night, but rates fluctuate.

Lewis and Clark

Also vintage, “Fluffing your pillow nightly since 1976” says the giant neon sign, with higher room rates, but sporting a big swimming pool and free morning breakfast. When I inquired about rates, I was quoted in the $225 vicinity. Address: 824 W Main St

There are a host of chain motels on the outskirts of town, as well as Airbnbs.

Where to eat

If you watched the Bozeman Photowalks episode, you know of my love for the Western Cafe, which bills itself as the “Last Best Cafe” in town. It’s a former boxcar that has lived on for more than 75 years, is in the national historic registry, and serves the kind of food your grandma might have made for you. I had a fabulous grilled cheese sandwich on pumpernickel one day, and the “Best of the West” lunch special the next: chicken fried steak, two eggs, a biscuit with sausage gravy and hand-cut fries. Topped off with a dish of huckleberry ice cream. The place is swimming in history, with wall hangings of jackalope and wild cats, steer markings, guns, fish and western art. (They close every day at 2, so be sure to get there in time!)

We also ate at the Jam on Main and Revelry, two upscale non-Western Cafe type eateries, and Main Street is littered with a mix of places you wouldn’t have found back in the days when Bozeman was founded as a silver mining town in the early 1900s. There’s Thai, Italian, japanese, indian, Food trucks, breweries, and of course, lots of pizza and steakhouses. And by my count, at least 3 ice cream parlors in the six block main street area.

Jefferson Graham with a Huckleberry Ice Cream sandwich, made in Montana by Wilcoxson’s Ice Cream

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