TRAVEL: The Glorious Other Side of The Tetons, from Idaho
After the road that connected uber-pricey Jackson Hole, Wyoming with the commuter towns of the Idaho Teton Valley towns collapsed in June, the great divide between super wealthy in Wyoming and working class folks of Idaho has been in the news.
The residents of Victor, Driggs and Tetonia, just over the Wyoming/Idaho border, are the people who drive into Jackson every day, a 90-minute commute at best, staffing the hotels, cafes and hospitals, and coming to work for construction to build multi-million dollar mansions for the billionaires who use Jackson as a second, third or fourth home.
When we visited recently, the road had just fallen, and the mood was grim. The only workaround was a two-hour backroad that wouldn’t be sustainable for the workers, and no tourist from Jackson was going to brave the drive to find cheaper lodging in the Teton Valley.
But miracle or miracles, a temporary road fix was patched together in three weeks, and all is well again.
Which brings us back to the Teton Valley. When visiting Jackson, we’ve always stayed in Victor, because it was so much cheaper, and then we discovered something else—the other side of the Tetons were just as breathtaking as they are in the Jackson, Grand Teton NP side.
It’s quieter, more remote, has better sunrises and sunsets, you can get some incredible photos, as well as the greatest Huckleberry milk shake anywhere and a burger that has to be seen to be believed.
Victor is the largest of the cities, and as you drive north, you’ll get to Driggs, which is home to the largest market in the area, and tiny Tetonia. From there, it’s rolling hills and farm lands, as you approach Idaho Falls.
Itinerary
Victor
There are about six walkable blocks, from the Victor Emporium (home of the shake) on one side of town down to the Butter Cafe, a really cool place for breakfast and lunch. (Highly recommended.) The local Victor Valley Market is next door to the Butter. It’s small, but has most everything you need and makes fantastic to order sandwiches, great for your hike picnic.
Your other Victor highlights will be:
Big Hole BBQ, on the other side of the market, which is open later than other restaurants, and obviously excels at BBQ. The Supper Club, across the way, also does good BBQ.
Brakeman Grill: Self-described “best burger” in the area, ones that are so big you can barely fit your mouth around them. Has limited hours, but worth checking the minute you get to town. You won’t be disappointed. (I had the Crazy Brakeman—watch the video to see the ingredients and my reaction.)
Followup at the Emporium, which churns out around 700 shakes daily during the summer. The Huck shake is renowned for its rich flavor and the inclusion of fresh huckleberries, making it a must-try dessert.
Activities.
There is a seven mile bike trail that runs between both sides of the car traffic. Great for walking to and seeing the great countryside. There are several bike rental shops in Victor.
Driggs
The largest supermarket in the area, Broulim’s is well-stocked, but closed on Sundays, the Citizen 33 craft brewery is open later than others and the Wydaho coffee shop has an amazing bakery. But the big attraction in Driggs is the Teton sightings. Here’s where you will drive to get your best photos in the area. The Tetons aren’t visible from downtown Victor.
Driggs Back Roads: To get your best shot of the Tetons, I suggest pulling down any back road and going as far as you can to the end, which will get you closer. My favorite backroad is 4000 North.
Tetonia: The tiny village doesn’t have much—just a gas station and an old bar—which looks great in a black and white photo. But the backroads! I fell in love with an abandoned shack on the side of the road, which, with the Tetons behind her, made for an awesome photo.
If you go:
A drive from the South Bay Bubble would take nearly 20 hours.
You can fly to the Jackson airport direct for around $500 round-trip, and go over the mountain pass in your rental car, or direct to Salt Lake City for around $150 round-trip. The drive from there, if you rent a car, is about 5 hours.