This morning I was considering the possibility of writing a review of the sunrise. There are tiny differences in every one, variations on the patterns of clouds and the degree to which a morning haze might add a glow, and some pretty writing could come of it. What couldn’t happen in such a piece is any surprise to the reader, because there is no suspense at all – they have seen plenty of these and know how it works out.
These thoughts were brought on by the prospect of writing a review of Uncle Bill’s Pancake House, which has been about as reliable as the sunrise for over 40 years. Except for the expansion in 2000 that added some more dining space and then outdoor patio, nothing has changed here in decades except the prices on the menu. When South Bay expatriates come home, this is the place they come to because it still looks like home. It tastes like it too – either the cooks have had remarkable continuity of style or the grill can remember what it’s been doing all this time and operates without human intervention.
Though the name of the restaurant references pancakes, are usually get one of their waffles or omelettes. The waffle that this place is famous for is the cheddar cheese and bacon variety, which has both of these items cooked in. When I try this at home, I usually get a mess instead of a waffle and have to clean the iron thoroughly, but they have the formula down here. It arrives crisp and with the perfect crust of cheese, all American comfort food encapsulated. If you try it here, and I strongly suggest you do, I suggest you get the butter on the side, as there is plenty of richness in here without it.
There are other waffles here with things cooked in too, which suggests that one day long ago when things were slow, somebody started tossing stuff into the batter to see what worked. The cinnamon raisin, pecan, and blueberry waffles are excellent alternatives for those who can’t face the cholesterol bomb magnificence of the cheese and bacon waffle, or if you wish to wallow in decadence you can get one with strawberries, whipped cream, and ice cream on top.
The omelettes here also an attraction, and they’re actually a bit different from the usual standard. First of all, the egg is spread very fitment before wrapping so that it’s almost like a crêpe – this focuses your attention on what’s inside. All of the usual choices are there, with a few originals and one that is the signature item– the Expo 73, which has cheese, onions, mushrooms, ham, bacon, sausage, and meat sauce, topped with sour cream. I asked Matt the owner about the name, and he had never thought to ask his father, who put it on the menu, but it had something to do with the big world’s fair held that year. Since this item had everything in the kitchen but the sink tossed inside, it made sense to name it after place that showcased everything in the world.
Since 1973 was also the year that Matt’s family brought the restaurant, there may have been other reasons too, but we’ll never know. What is certain is that it’s a great combination, and if you have one for breakfast there will be no need whatsoever for lunch. This is because the substantial omelette is served with a side of hash browns and your choice of toast, pancakes, or muffins. I really can’t imagine why anyone would order the toast, because the other two are made in-house and are world-class. The muffins are standard size rather than the giant cakelike things served elsewhere, and the pancakes that are the signature dish here is light and fluffy as they get. The buttermilk cakes are standard, but for a small extra charge you can get the buckwheat, multigrain, or blueberry pancakes as sides with your omelette. Of course, if you prefer pancakes to omelettes, you could just get the cakes and eggs, have them with blueberries baked in or bananas on top, or in various other configurations.
Uncle Bill’s is open for lunch too, though I have to admit that even at lunch, I still usually order breakfast. They make a good standard Burgers and sandwiches, a better-than-average patty melt, and decent though mild homemade chili. One of these days I expect that I’ll even try one of the salads, which use organic ingredients, but every time I thought about ordering one, a server walked by with an omelette or waffle and I changed my mind. Though I usually love trying new things, here I’m a creature of habit.
If you’re looking for the classics perfectly executed, there is no better place than this, period. I have met people who have always plan to eat here but were daunted by the line is usually outside on weekends. Take my advice and go there anyway–bring a friend to talk to or a newspaper to read (I recommend this one). It is worth it for a great breakfast on the sunny patio or in the homelike environment that has served our community for decades.
Uncle Bill’s Pancake House is at 1305 Highland Avenue in Manhattan Beach. Open Mo-Fr 6 AM-3 PM, Sa-Su 7 AM-3 PM. Street parking only, nearby lots. No alcohol served, some vegetarian items. No reservations. Website at unclebills.net, Phone 310-545-5177.
