New Life at old Giuliano’s, Mediterranean replaces Korean, requiem for The Spot, new dining events
A La Carte column for 16 February 2023
Renaissance On Aviation: The former Giuliano’s on Aviation has been closed for almost three years, but a tenant is on the way, and it’s a familiar one to those who have been visiting the Hermosa Farmers Market. Tommy and Atticus Bread, Coffee, & Pastry isn’t named after the owner, baker Garrett McPerry, but after the two sourdough starters he uses. (He’s not the only person to anthropomorphize those jars of yeast, and in fact many bakers do so. Mine is named Fred.) As might be guessed, sourdough breads are their specialty, but Garrett also makes croissants, cookies, and other desserts. The vast space will be a big leap from his current cottage operation, and there will be plenty of room for cafe seating. Watch for an opening later this year…
Asian Dumplings Out, Restaurant Empire Expands: Pa-Do closed shortly after the departure of founding chef Al Kim, and has been bought by someone who has made a big splash on the local dining scene in a short time. The new name is Slay Mediterranean, and they’ll serve items like duck confit with satsumas, lamb shank with pomegranate molasses, and stuffed grape leaves simmered with tomato and lemon. David Slay didn’t say how soon the transformation will occur, but I assume he’d like to be open for the summer business. It may seem strange to own three restaurants within sight of each other, but David isn’t alone – Paul Hennessey has three in Riviera Village, Greg Newman has three on the Pier Plaza, and the Simms Brothers have interests in five in only a slightly wider radius. Each of those entrepreneurs have made a big bet on a neighborhood, and so far it seems to be working out for all of them…
Speaking (easily) About Manhattan: The space next door to Slay’s new venture is now a speakeasy-style bar called X (yes, just X). They’ve been open for two months but you might have missed them thanks to subtle signage. If you enjoy good cocktails in a characterful environment, this is a destination. On the night we were there, a show was in progress by violinist Emily V, who was looping her instrument with a guitar to create intricate soundscapes as Betty Boop cartoons ran behind the bar. She’s a regular Wednesday performer, and fits in with the smart, creative vibe of this place (1017 Manhattan Avenue)…
Spot Erased: The shuttering of The Spot ends an era in South Bay history as well as the broader history of healthy dining in Los Angeles. I was only an occasional visitor to the place, appreciating the chill stuck-in-the-’70s environment and hearty, simple meals. I did respect Tonya Beaudet’s welcoming attitude toward her customers and commitment to providing a vegetarian dining experience to two generations. Those customers rallied to save the restaurant, but massive utility bills that piled up during the pandemic were insurmountable. The Spot will be missed by many, myself included, and I wish Tonya a serene retirement and her staff success in finding a pleasant landing spot…
Confusingly Identical: The Hudson House on PCH in Redondo has sued the Hudson House on the Sunset Strip, which should surprise absolutely nobody. The gastropub in Redondo has been open since 2009, while the one in West Hollywood opened about a month ago. The Sunset location has no connection with Redondo, and is an outpost of a chain in Texas. Nobody in California knows about the Texas chain, while the Redondo spot has received widespread acclaim, and it’s hard to imagine why the Texans didn’t just change the name for their California location. I expect that they’ll do that, and pay plenty of legal fees in addition to whatever it costs to change the sign…
Event Alerts: In the coming month you may attend wine and beer dinners, as well as an unusual sampling of food from India. In the spirit of the bill now going through congress to prohibit hidden fees, I’ll do my best to translate all items that were advertised without tax and tip so you know what they really cost. This may vary a little as some places calculate differently than others, and I applaud all the places with honest pricing that don’t make me do this math…
Taking things chronologically, on February 28 Gabi James will be hosting a beer paired dinner with Burning Daylight Brewing – four courses, four beers, plus a beer cocktail. The menu includes a pork terrine with pineapple chutney, gorgonzola bucatini with crispy pork belly, and a winter tart with toasted nuts and seasonal fruit. Cost is $110 inclusive, reservations can be made through Eventbrite.com or at (310) 540-4884… Uncorked in Hermosa has an event coming up on March 1, when winemaker Kris Beverly of Civilization Wine Co. stops in for a pours and conversation. The same will happen on March 8 when Cuatro Dias winemaker Greg Allen will be on hand. If you enjoy casual time with a winemaker, these events are a delight. Both are $25, no reservations needed but are first come, first served… The wine dinners at Pacific Standard Prime are more structured and high style, and their next one is on March 8 with winemaker Kira Ballotta of Cantadora and Olivia Brion wineries. Kira will talk about her wines and the inspiring women to whom they are dedicated in between courses that include a duck confit crepe, chorizo crusted sea bass, and a hanger steak with rosemary-thyme potatoes. Pacific Standard Prime’s events often sell out, so reserve soon – it’s $150 inclusive, and there’s a link from their website at pspsteak.com… On March 9th Fogo de Chao will host a wine dinner with Zuccardi Wines from the Mendoza region of Argentina. They’ll offer both regular and “indulgent” cuts of their churrasco, but also a charcuterie board, bacon wrapped shrimp salad, and dessert. Five courses will set you back $89 plus tax & tip, which is about $120. There’s reservation link on their page at fogodechao.com… A different sort of event will happen at Addi’s Darbar on March 21 when owner Addi DeCosta will host a dinner of Goa-style Indian specialties. In between courses he will explain the food culture of this former Portuguese enclave, which developed a unique Mediterranean-Asian fusion during four centuries of colonization. This will be a rare chance to enjoy some off-menu items and very personal hospitality. I will be co-hosting this event, which costs $85 inclusive and is a benefit for nonprofit art space Collage: A Place for Art & Culture. A link with more information is at Eventbrite, and you can learn more about the organization on their website at collageartculture.org… And to round out this column, Fishbar in Manhattan Beach just announced another in their popular series of wine dinners on March 22 with Elizabeth Spencer Winery. They’ll offer grilled oysters, smoked salmon tartine, braised lamb shoulder, and a dark chocolate raspberry tart for $85 plus tax & tip, about $120. A reservation link will be on their site this weekend, or you can call 310-796-0200…
Random News: I was driving down Manhattan Beach Boulevard at Inglewood and noticed that La Carniceria Meat Market will be opening just south of the corner. Their name means the same thing in different languages, which I found amusing. Construction is underway, but it doesn’t look like I’ll be stopping in for costillas de borrego any time soon… The California Pizza Kitchen at the Redondo Galleria closed recently, a sad end for a place that was a hotspot when it opened. CPK’s were cutting edge in the ‘80s, when kung pao spaghetti and barbecue chicken pizzas were wild new ideas, and this one lasted a long time. It will be interesting to see whether the plans to revitalize the mall include the high-end dining options that have worked so well in Manhattan Beach and Del Amo… The Rockefeller Restaurants in the Beach Cities have responded to customers who missed the days when they were open for brunch and lunch, and have reintroduced some classic items. They’ve also brought back two-dollar burger Tuesdays. I typed that rather than using numbers because otherwise people wonder whether it’s a typo – yep, it’s not $20 or even $12, they’re two bucks, and they’re a respectable size. I’m sure the management expects people will buy sides and a beverage, but it’s still going to be a meal that’s easy on the wallet…
Ocean views for some downtown Manhattan Beach restaurants will become a thing of the past at the end of February, at least until city officials come up with a new outdoor dining deck program. Some restaurant workers worry their jobs will also become a thing of the past when the current decks are removed. Photo by Kevin Cody
Uneasy in 90266: Last night I walked around Manhattan Beach talking with restaurant owners and staff about how they’re coping with the imminent departure of dining decks. Most got a sad face when I raised the subject, and employees said that they expect reduced numbers of shifts if not outright layoffs. Only one restaurant worker liked that they are going to be dismantled, and that’s because local wildlife has been nesting under the one in front of their establishment. (I’m sure that the mice and opossums of the neighborhood were upset too, but none were available for an interview.) Those decks were the most popular seating at some restaurants, and it will not surprise me at all if some modest eateries with leases that will soon expire decide now is a good time to leave. This is Manhattan Beach, so someone will snap those up and open something more expensive, another step in the gentrification of the area…
And In Closing: If you know a restaurant opening I might’ve missed, a culinary event that should be covered, or just about anything related to food that I should know about, please send the information my way. I’m at richard@richardfoss.com. And as long as you’re on the internet, check out past restaurant reviews on our website at easyreadernews.com/restaurants/. ER