Though W’s China Bistro has a name that leads you to expect tradition, the menu has much more going on — not only Chinese dishes, but Thai, Peruvian, and some items that fuse multiple traditions. Sautéing shrimp with scallions and shallot is very Chinese, but the Chardonnay sauce adds a different dimension and the wok-seared ahi tuna over Chinese vegetables neatly bridges Japanese and Chinese cuisine. Boundaries are crossed fearlessly but thoughtfully. The result is consistently interesting. — RF
1410 South PCH, RB, wschiunabistro.com, (310) 792-1600)
Runner-up: Little Sister
