The constant symphony of waves barreling onto shore was making things a tad bit difficult for me and my friend and temporary surf helper Clarke McTaggart. We saw a set coming, he turned me around, and the wave we were aiming for broke suddenly and shot my board like a rock in a catapult out from under me.
Clark recovered my shred stick and made his way back out through the powerful rollers as I carefully ducked under big walls of whitewater. Even though the conditions had nerves on edge and I was still in pain from a bad sprain, the water-loving kid in me was having a ball holding my breath as another wave would crash just before reaching us. Clarke managed to get me into a short ride, and we made our way up the beach, leaving the symphony undisturbed to play of its own accord without a disruption in the lines.
