Authenticity and innovation off the beaten path

by Richard FossThe life of commercial fishermen has always been hard, dirty, and unglamorous, which hasn’t stopped restaurants evoking it in their decor. Decorators scavenge nautical wrecking yards for patched nets, rusty lobster pots, and bits of anything that might plausibly have been used to catch fish. As soon as the last rusty binnacle is nailed into place, a sign goes up offering a fried shrimp platter and a happy hour beer special.I headed for the recently opened Trani’s Docks