A Little Piece of Italy [restaurant review]
SAOR Project owner Gianluca Zago. Photos by JP Cordero One of the odder effects of the pandemic has been to level the playing field for modest restaurants. When everybody is serving outdoors on improvised patios, the view of the beach, street-life, or in some cases a brick wall is the same as their neighbors’. People who wouldn’t have given some places a second glance now make their dining decision based on what they see on the plates coming out to the cafe tables. It must be daunting for those who remodeled their interiors in January, but it’s a win for others. Among the beneficiaries of this is Saor Project, the tiny Italian cafe on the Hermosa Pier Plaza. If you haven’t seen it, it’s not that you’re unobservant — it’s a very small business tucked between larger ones, with an odd name that doesn’t immediately register as a restaurant. The recent addition of more tables has brought them forward so they get more street traffic, and when I dined there most recently many passers-by stopped to puzzle out the menu. That list is short but worthy of a second look, because it represents the cuisine of an underappreciated region, the area north of Venice near the Austrian border…
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