Beach City Grill [RESTAURANT REVIEW]

The sign in the window says “Live Music,” though nobody remembers when they last had any. The tables are topped with beach towels instead of tablecloths. Some items have been on the “Daily Specials” menu for years, and others are available even though they don’t appear on any menu at all. Opening and closing hours are posted, but to quote a recent hit movie, “they’re not really rules, more like guidelines.”

Those who are regulars at the Beach City Grill in San Pedro are probably smiling and nodding their heads already. Those who haven’t dined there yet may be wondering why anybody would go out of their way to visit such a casually run establishment. The reason is simple – the food at this odd little place is nothing short of fantastic. Chef Larry Hodgson cooked at some fine restaurants before opening his quirky little diner, and he applies a masterful technique to down-home cooking.

When we arrived on a recent evening there were people waiting outside. This is nothing unique – the place is small and doesn’t take reservations, so at times there’s a line. When someone noticed we had been there for a few minutes, the kitchen sent out a complimentary order of sweet potato fries. They’re not as crisp as those made from russet potatoes, but the slightly musky sweetness is diverting, especially dusted as these were with zingy spices. When dipped in the house-made ketchup, they’re a neat taste to whet the appetite and while away the wait.

The garlic fries are darn good too, which we found when we got inside. We ordered them because we had smelled an order going by, and resolved on the spot to try them. Those who don’t really love garlic should be warned – you shouldn’t plan any social engagements for the rest of the evening with anyone who didn’t partake.

Starvation having been averted, we examined the menu – or rather, menus. The paper one that was delivered to the table had fairly standard coffee shop fare, with nothing much more exotic than a turkey burger and some pasta. The chalkboard is the real menu, an eclectic hodgepodge that includes various Caribbean items like Jamaican jerk chicken, spicy New Orleans shrimp, and other enticing delicacies. We selected plates of Cuban-style roast pork, Indonesian black-skinned chicken, a bowl of gumbo, and a burger.

Chef Hodgson obviously delights in food from many different cultures, but he doesn’t seem to be a fusion chef – each item was served in its traditional style with appropriate accompaniments. The tender, subtly spicy Cuban pork was paired with some of the best black beans I’ve ever had and a mild rice and corn mix. Each of the three elements of the meal had a flavor that was interesting in itself, and the various combinations of flavors made the meal a joy from end to end. That end wasn’t until the next day, because the portion was ample enough that we took some home. Given that the entrée was priced at only about ten dollars, it was a spectacular bargain.

The gumbo also was spiced and served traditionally, with a dollop of rice for mixing with the rich, spicy stew. Note that when something here is billed as spicy, they’re not kidding – the gumbo was piquant without being fiery, but on a previous visit the Jamaican jerk chicken was on the melt-your-fillings dangerous side. As with any good gumbo, the spices enhanced the flavor of seafood rather than masking it.

I had ordered the Indonesian black-skinned chicken because the chef said that unlike some of the other specials, it really is special – he only makes it occasionally. The skin of the chicken is rubbed with a mix of spices, peanut sauce, and brown sugar, and when the chicken is roasted the sugar caramelizes with the spices into a slightly stiff crust. That crust keeps all the juices and flavor inside, making for succulent, moist meat inside the flavorful skin. The preparation may be time-consuming but it’s worth it, because the effect is spectacular.

Having ordered eclectic items for three in our party, we selected a regular hamburger for the fourth, partly just to see if Chef Larry could make such a mundane item as special as the rest of his meals. Mind you, we couldn’t see quite how he might have done so, but it was worth a try. In fact the burger was a standard burger, good but not noteworthy in any particular way. If you have someone in your party who likes slightly bland food, this or the pasta with artichoke hearts would be a good choice.

We finished with dessert, which is one of Larry Hodgson’s strengths – he has twice been voted Pastry Chef of the Year by critics’ associations. One of his specialties is cheesecake, a very popular dessert that I don’t happen to like at all. Nevertheless I tried a slice of chocolate cheesecake with hazelnuts and decided that if I was going to like one, this is it. I often find cheesecake heavy and cloying, but this one had a lightness that made it more like a Napoleon. The strawberry shortcake was more my style, with a homemade scone that wasn’t overly sweet filling in for the usual heavy pound cake. I’d order it again in a second.

Every town ought to have an eatery that is unpretentious but excellent, and The Beach City Grill fills this niche in San Pedro. It’s inexpensive, with nothing on the menu over fourteen dollars, and the portions are generous. As wonderful and quirky discoveries go, this is San Pedro’s best.

The Beach City Grill is located at 376 West Sixth Street in San Pedro. Open Tuesday through Saturday, 11 AM until 9 PM. Handicap access possible but complicated due to lack of nearby parking and narrow entry. No alcohol served, children welcome. Phone 310-833-6345 for information or take-out.

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