Rooted in tradition: Radici in Hermosa Beach [restaurant review]
I try to be optimistic about every new restaurant, but sometimes I see a business plan and wonder what the owner is thinking. As an example, consider a restaurant space with low visibility from the street that has had a turnover in operations about every two years as concept after concept has failed. Someone has the idea of putting in an Italian restaurant, despite the fact that there are four other places serving Italian food within three blocks. Sound like a good idea to you? It could be if the newcomer offers something none of the others do, and on this Hermosa’s Radici scores on two fronts. The high style interior is a startling departure from the beachy casual vibe of their competitors, and the cuisine is rigorously Italian rather than the Cal-Italian hybrid you get everywhere else in town. In context, what might seem like a silly idea is both well-calculated and bold. The design and décor don’t attempt to recreate some village trattoria, opting instead for the sleek, modern look of a city ristorante. Particular care has been taken with the lighting. Artfully asymmetrical fixtures and the way they gently but completely illuminate the room. Your expectations are set and you…
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