We’re soon going to find out whether the fast food of other parts of America will catch on in the South Bay thanks to a pair of regional transplants. Rita’s Frozen Custard recently opened in Redondo, serving Philadelphia’s version of Italian ices, and Boardwalk has established a presence in Hermosa Beach selling burgers and fries made in the style of the Maryland coast.
Boardwalk has had cult status since shortly after the place was founded in Ocean City in 1980, their only product at the time being french fries. Man does not live by fries alone, so after a few years they started serving the inevitable complement, burgers, eventually followed by hot dogs, chicken tenders, and the other common elements of the fast food template.
Having eaten at the Hermosa location a few times, as well as the original in Ocean City, I can confirm that the Hermosa location has replicated the East Coast experience exactly. This seems to extend to the customers’ preferences – while a variety of burgers and sandwiches are delivered to tables, I have never seen anybody eat there without ordering fries. It was the original reason the place got famous as well as the enduring attraction, and you see the paper cup of skin-on russets on every table.
So are they as good as advertised? I’d have to say yes – they’re twice-fried in peanut oil, which makes them very crisp because that oil can get very hot without scorching so you can fry hotter than in canola and other commonly used oils. After frying they receive a splash of apple cider vinegar and a sprinkle of salt and Old Bay seasoning, making a tangy, spicy fry that is as good as fast food gets. I tend to add an extra dash of Old Bay and a dip of ketchup, but they’re good just as they come to the table.
Those fries deserve a great burger to go along with them, but in my experience the ones served in Hermosa fall just a bit short. They’re not bad and are made with freshly ground meat, but they have sometimes been oily and seem under-seasoned. Just a little salt, pepper, and maybe a dash of garlic would fix this, and I usually add some after, but it’s not the same as having the spices cooked in. Ordering a bacon blue cheese burger helps, and there are other build-your-own add-ins that can make for a satisfying meal, but sometimes a plain burger with just a little subtle spice is what you need to fill the craving.
Surprisingly, the ahi burger and the vegetarian version here were both more to my liking. The vegetarian burger was built around what was described a spicy black bean patty, but it’s not spicy by even gringo fast food standards. They don’t try to fake the flavor and texture of meat, which is smart because that rarely works – instead it slightly resembles a soft falafel, and with the lettuce, tomato, and mild chipotle sauce it’s unusually good for fast food vegetarian fare.
The ahi sandwich is spiced with just a whisper of wasabi, and though the portion was on the small side the fish tasted fresh and the flavors were spot on. The ahi was properly seared with the inside rare, and my companion gave it the highest compliment of which he was capable – he wolfed it down before I could snag a second bite.
Beverages here are the usual sodas, beer, or freshly made shakes, and as much as I like a beer with my burger I’d suggest the shakes. Beer I can get anywhere, but a good shake is hard to find.
So having tried Boardwalk, do I get the cult status? I guess I do – they’re unique in the fast food world as far as I can tell, and I find them curiously addictive. The rest of the menu falls a bit short of that level of greatness, but there are several items that work as accompaniments to Boardwalk fries, and that’s good enough.
Boardwalk is at 1031 Hermosa Avenue in Hermosa Beach, open daily 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Small parking lot or street parking, beer and wine served, children welcome. (310) 318-0533.
