Done Right, Served Hot [restaurant review]
Julia Zamora with OB’s signature tacos. Photo by JP Cordero
I’m glad I don’t have a peanut allergy because I like places with peanut shells on the floor. Bars and restaurants that have them are carrying on a great American tradition. The oldest example cited by historian Andrew F. Smith a 1803 New York newspaper column written under the name “Philo Drammaticus.” Mr. Drammaticus was a theater critic who was responding to a complaint about people cracking the nuts during performances, and he bemoaned the accompanying litter on the floor. At some point, an unknown bar owner must have decided it gave his place character as well as an inexpensive floor covering, and a tradition was born.
A barrel of peanuts is near the front door at OB’s Pub & Grill. I know because we were seated next to it. Patrons came by at regular intervals to grab handfuls, making me wonder if the restaurant sold less food as a consequence. Since the slightly salty peanuts make you thirsty, I presume they make up any deficiency in food sales at the bar.
At just about any other restaurant in town I’d expect to see those peanuts crusting a halibut or in a South Asian cabbage slaw, but the menu here is as anchored in tradition as the décor. The exterior got a makeover and some new paint about a decade ago, but inside it’s still 1985. The environment is cluttered with old street signs alongside sports and beer memorabilia. TVs offer the games despite the fact that nobody seems to be watching them. The menu offers bar food of the same era, with very few modern touches.
We started a recent meal with fried zucchini, a classic, and “pig wings,” pork rib pieces that are fried and served with hot sauce. The rib pieces were like carnitas on the bone, which makes me hungry for more even as I read the words I just typed. As for the zucchini, the thick spears arrived in a crunchy beer batter with ranch dressing for dipping. I prefer my zucchini cut a bit finer so that it cools to eating temperature a bit more quickly but enjoyed this version anyway.
The bar is surprisingly well-stocked with whiskies.I tried a Russell’s Reserve Bourbon that I had been wanting to taste for a while. That said, this isn’t a mixology place – their default Manhattan is shaken and contains soda, neither of which is according to the book. They’ll make it traditionally if you ask, so if you want the classic, tell them when you order. Most people seem to be drinking simple cocktails or beer, and that fits the place, too.
OB’s tacos and peanuts are all a person needs. Photo by JB Cordero.
For mains on this trip, we had fish and chips, a “Southern Swell” burger topped with a hot link, and a plate of bangers with fries. (We wanted their meatloaf, which I remembered as excellent, but they had run out. This is one of the drawbacks of dining late but is a sign that they still make things fresh… The bangers were a decent alternative, but next time I’ll visit earlier and pounce on the meatloaf before it’s gone.)
The fish and chips had the same crisp beer batter as the zucchini and were fried with the same skill. As with the sausages and chips, there isn’t a whole lot to say about it except that the kitchen and servers know the rules of good bar food: pick something simple, do it right, and get it to the table hot. It’s not anything I haven’t had a hundred times before, but I’ll have both another hundred times because they still go down nicely with a beer.
I’d rate the Southern Swell and their other burgers a half notch above the other two items because they do grind their meat fresh here and it has a grill flavor. That’s hard to discern in this particular sandwich because there’s also a spicy, greasy, delicious sausage on top, but in simpler items, the better quality patty makes a big difference. I had mine with tater tots (a guilty pleasure, but we were celebrating bar food and I promised myself I’d work out to make up for it).
Dessert at OB’s is another beer or old fashioned, or if you really want to finish with something sweet you can order cider. Take a few more peanuts if you have room for them, but you probably won’t because the portions are generous. If you stick a few in your pocket to take home, as I saw someone do, just remember to throw the shells on the floor to remind yourself to come back.
OB’s Pub & Grill is at 3610 Highland Ave., Manhattan Beach. Open 9 a.m. – 2 a.m. daily, street parking or nearby lot at Rosecrans. Wheelchair access limited, most seating high. Menu at obsmb.com. (310) 546-1542.