Sharing the stoke of surfing with a group of buddies is the absolute best early start to any day, even in the heart of California winter.
Arriving down to the parking lot in front of Brothers Burritos at 7:15, I found my amazing lifeguard and physician assistant friend Jackie Kwan already sipping on her coffee, the air about 40 degrees with a slight breezy offshore flow stinging our chilled faces. Soon after, surf coach (he’s for hire!!) Mike Siordia and my buddies, both photographers and rad surfers Brendan Simmons and Paul Roustan made their way in to the burrito palace as well, warming up briefly inside before we finally put on our chic seal-eque surf attire (Mike’s was purple) and hit the sea, smiles abound.
In between the getting-better-by-the-second waves, some additional serious talent hit the water — Kris Hall and Ted Lytle made their way into the group, and the pumping consistent Hermosa surf had everyone looking their best. Ted was taking off fins first, Kris was cross stepping and pulling into the barrel with a smooth style, and Mike Siordia was hanging 10 like the nose of his longboard was a second home. Brendan Simmons pulled off some graceful carves and noserides that made it look easy before he finally got the photographer itch and got out to snap some great pictures of the rest of the skilled logging crew. Paul Roustan of www.bumpsetsurf.com decided that today’s surf gear would be fins and a GoPro and braved the icy water, capturing some barrels and bubbly action. Last but certainly not least I found my “surf dad” Frank Paine in the lineup, and he brought some sunshine with him and seemed to warm the freezing water with his presence.
I feel more than blessed to be able to surf with this crew. Such a special group of people is hard to find, and each have their own style, personality, and stoke. Everyone understands that the pause button on even a meaningful conversation is always hit when a good set rolls through, and bouncing around in the water with people who genuinely share your love and passion for the ocean amplifies the experience. The sea can easily become an infatuation for anyone – and I’m lucky that some of the individuals I get to see in the water almost daily feel the ocean’s pull just as much as I do. The stoke of the Pacific keeps you feeling warm when your toes are numb, keeps you paddling when your shoulders are burning, and keeps you running towards the sea with a heavy board when the wind is tearing at your face.
One by one we exited the water, feet burning on the gravel in the parking lot, still high on that feeling of inexplicable, magical stoke.
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