Endless Session, Day 135: Solitude

Morgan sliding into the barrel. Photo by GoodSport Video

Morgan sliding into the barrel on day 135. Photo by GoodSport Video

 

Small doses of solitude can be restorative.

Surfing every day with the amazing people that have become such a large part of my life brings me such joy – while sitting on our boards, floating in the water, we share such meaningful conversation (which is always promptly paused whenever a good wave rolls in) and laugh and smile until our faces hurt.  Enjoying these and new people’s company while doing the thing I love most is the greatest feeling, but every once in a while, it’s nice to drift around with no one but yourself.

Photo by GoodSport Video

Photo by GoodSport Video

This morning I got down to an absolutely incredible day in Hermosa at sunrise, the waves so good that I was in disbelief that there was the lone soul out next to the pilings.  Thinking to myself that it was a fluke and my tired eyes weren’t seeing clear, I paddled out in the just-as-good-as-it-looked surf.  Soon after the other guy left me in stillness, and I had about 15 minutes of relaxing silence with the exception of the perfect waves crashing around me.  As I noticed some pier-frequenters finally paddle out, I soaked in the last bit of me time and started chatting with the incoming gang. That short soul recharge of mediation was ever so cleansing.

All in life is good right now.

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