Today the sea was high (with an approximately seven foot high tide at 8:30 a.m.), but the waves were surprisingly not.
It’s really quite amazing how diverse each and every paddle out can be.  Coming from yesterday’s scary storm surf to a completely flat ocean in Redondo beach this morning was almost comical.  Me and my surf partner in crime, TedShred, had to go on a literal wave hunt and landed in El Porto, where we found enough swell to make day 158 a success.
The changes intrigue me.  I’ve heard that a key to happiness is variety, mixing it up, and deviating from the norm… and the ocean provides that in the most beautiful way.  Yesterday the deep blue sea had me fearing for my safety (in was still epic and awesome) and today the calm water gave me a chance to relax and float around for a bit, not having to constantly keep watch for outside sets that I might take on the head.  Going out every day in different conditions makes me appreciate each and every scenario, and has made me be a better and more well versed surfer and water-woman, dealing with all different types of waves — powerful, weak, stormy, soft, fast… the list goes on.
The windy Christmas Day yesterday must’ve brought some much colder water with it, because as soon as my wetsuit and I hit the water I was almost gasping for air. Â It’s those moments that make you feel truly alive. Â After a fun session, Ted and I walked back up the beach and as we walked through the parking lot, the gravel felt like knives on our numb feet.
I’d like to take a long moment to thank whoever invented car heaters.  My frozen post-surf toes love you and appreciate you more than you could possibly know.
