When I woke up I couldn’t decide if I would stay in or leave the clean air and chilly waters of Santa Cruz. The weekend’s longboard contest was over, but I had no obligations for the next few days. I figured a surf would help me set things straight.
I jammed back to pleasure point, the haven for riders toting around leashless boards with retro, colorful fins. As I floated around, waiting patiently among the stylish loggers for a turn or two in the streaming right-handed perfection, I was longing for home. South swells were about to pummel Southern California, and besides seeing my surf familia, I wanted to be there to catch some of the magic.
The five hour car was made longer by memorial day traffic and a bee that decided to attack me while puttering down the 5, and at 10:30 at night, my home wrapped me up in sandy sheets and pillows and I drifted off into surf siesta, on the road again tomorrow for another trip, this time South, to the beaches of Doheny.
