In what way, I wondered as I pulled into the parking lot at Fat Tomato Pizza, is a fat tomato better than a skinny one? Or should a fat tomato be compared with another tomato that is svelte, has been doing its workouts and is near the optimum weight? It was a question I might have asked someone at the counter, but there was a bare possibility that they might not regard it as a serious question.
Fat or otherwise, tomatoes play a big part in their small menu. They offer two types of chicken wings, a few salads, a dozen types of pizza plus a choose-your-own option, five sandwiches, and three pastas. In a neighborhood with lots of pizza options, some on the baroque side, they stick to the basics. They obviously expect most people to get theirs to go or have it delivered, because when you do order in everything is served in to-go containers with paper plates and plastic forks.
There’s an obvious appeal to people seeking healthy fast food, as their to-go containers are emblazoned with the slogan “100% Baked Food.” I presumed this didn’t apply to the salads – I have had a very good Caesar made with briefly grilled romaine, but baking lettuce doesn’t seem like a promising idea. The Caesar here was decent but not exceptional – the dressing was thick and had plenty of parmesan and garlic, but was missing a certain something. The Hermosa salad was better – composed of baby greens, goat cheese, sundried tomatoes, and pinenuts in a balsamic vinaigrette dressing, the flavors were distinct and well composed. The goat cheese would have been better in smaller pieces than the big chunks served here, but that aside it was fine.
Baking suited their garlic parmesan wings very well; I’d rank these among the best in the South Bay. The buffalo sauce served with them was on the mild side of medium but that was fine, as these didn’t need any dip to be delicious. Upstate New York’s greatest contribution to American cuisine is in safe hands here.
The pizzas are made with a New York style thin crust, and like all thin crust pizzas are best straight from the oven. They’ll survive a brief trip home in the car, but you should prepare to devour it immediately on arrival. Or even better, eat it there – there are five tables, and though the décor is spartan the freshness of the food will be compensation. I’ve tried a vegetarian, Hermosa Special of garlic, goat cheese, basil, and arugula, and a white pizza with spinach called, inevitably, Popeye’s special. (The cartoon character always ate canned spinach, which I’m not sure you can even get any more, and which will still be markedly inferior to the fresh stuff even if you can find it.) The name isn’t the reason to order this pizza, though. Getting a tomato-less pizza at a place called Fat Tomato may not seem obvious, but it was my favorite of the ones I tried, since the Alfredo sauce and ricotta with herbs had a silky texture and was delicious with vegetables, herbs, and a dash of garlic.
I wanted to try something other than pizzas, so also had an Italian submarine on a baguette and, at the suggestion of the fellow at the counter, their spaghetti with meat sauce. Spaghetti Bolognese is usually a ho-hum item, but this is listed on the menu as a signature dish, and justifiably so. It was more than just tomato sauce with ground beef tossed in, but a sauce that has cooked down for a long period with a lot of spice and garlic so it’s rich and hearty. The spaghetti was slightly past al dente but not overcooked, and I surprised myself by eating a large portion.
The sandwich was less noteworthy – decent to be sure, and on good bread, but I might have liked a bit of lettuce or purple onion to add a bit of crunch and vegetable flavor. Having tried their meat sauce I would consider a meatball sandwich here the next time I’m looking for a beefy full meal.
Fat Tomato shares a very small parking lot with two other restaurants and a 7-11, so the spaces are frequently all occupied. When they opened across the street from another restaurant serving pizza, I questioned the wisdom of the decision. It seems to be turning out well for them, as I saw a steady stream of take-out orders on all three visits. They’ve earned the business, because they offer homemade flavors at only a slight premium over places where everything comes out of the freezer. It’s worth a bit more for a much better experience, and I’ll be back the next time that pizza and wing craving hits.
Fat Tomato Pizza is at 4 46 Pacific Coast Highway in Hermosa. Open daily 11 am-11 pm, small lot, street parking, or delivery. No alcohol served, wheelchair access ok, some vegetarian items. No alcohol served, no corkage. Menu at gofattomato.com, phone 424-247-8021.
