Gambrinus [RESTAURANT REVIEW]

I have friends who live in Anaheim but take a perverse pride in never, ever, visiting Disneyland. It’s an odd sort of snob appeal, to have a world-renowned attraction in your back yard and not go there. They don’t ignore the place completely, since they often watch the free fireworks that happen every night, but otherwise they might as well be in another world. Some Redondo Beach residents take the same dismissive attitude toward the pier – a place for tourists, nothing there worth a local’s time. When it comes to dining, this is one of those rare cases where the tourists know more than the locals. There are several excellent restaurants here, among them Gambrinus, the South Bay’s only Russian and Lithuanian restaurant. Gambrinus opened with a very limited menu and service that was amiable but frequently uncomprehending. The restaurant changed hands about six months ago, and both the selection and the service have changed for the better. The Galickis family all speak fluent English and seem to enjoy explaining Baltic dishes to customers whose knowledge of this cuisine is small to nonexistent, and their preparations of traditional recipes are the best I’ve found in Los Angeles. On…

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