Gem in an unlikely neighborhood [restaurant review]
Whatever you think of immigration (and in the current political climate it’s pretty certain you have some opinion), the countries that have a lot of it sure develop interesting cuisines. Fascinating hybrids develop in neighborhoods where cultures mingle, and the most appealing ones become part of the shared culinary heritage of their adopted country.
This process has been at work for hundreds of years in Brazil, and that cuisine has been breaking news on the LA scene in recent months. While it’s a new thing in many other neighborhoods, the South Bay has some history, with no fewer than seven restaurants that range from tiny and modest cafes to more substantial establishments.
One of these just switched from the first category to the second, though you might not have noticed because of their extremely odd location.
Panelas Brazil Cuisine opened in a sliver of space on a side street in a residential neighborhood in 2013, and when I first reviewed them that year I had considerable doubts that they’d survive. Sometimes I’m happy to be wrong, and this was one of those times. They’ve thrived and expanded into an adjoining space and can now accommodate 10 times more people, plus room for a samba band to set up and play on weekends. The space is neat, modern, and free of kitsch — there’s a Brazilian flag banner and some art that reflects their home country, but they’ve resisted the impulse to stick posters all over the walls.
The menu hasn’t expanded quite as much as the dining room but there’s a lot to choose from. It draws on the foods and techniques of Iberian, Italian, Germanic, and indigenous peoples. Brazilians are big meat eaters so there’s lots of beef, pork, and chicken on the menu, but there are a few choices for vegetarians. This is working class Brazilian food, so don’t expect servers at your tables carving meat from skewers. Do expect a lot of food on every plate, and if you order starters make it because you want to try those flavors rather than because you think you’ll really need them.
I have tried two in consecutive visits, the chicken wings and codfish balls. Both were delightful. The wings were breaded before frying and afterward tossed with herbs and a very, very generous portion of caramelized garlic. These may be the best wings in the South Bay if you like them in this style rather than dipped in buffalo sauce, and on that second visit it was hard not to order them again. We were glad we didn’t because the codfish balls were even better. These are made with dried fish rehydrated and mixed with both yuca and wheat flour with spices. The yuca flour makes them fry up incredibly crisp. The Brazilian taste for dried salted cod, a fish of the North Atlantic, is a relic of the seafaring era when sailors kept barrels of the stuff on board. They probably got tired of it after a few months at sea, but for modern Americans it’s a delightful and delicious novelty.
In those two visits we tried entrees of a “Brazilian plate” of skewered beef with traditional accompaniments, a plate of pot roast, a salmon plate, and a daily special of chicken parmigiana. Tens of thousands of Italians and Germans moved to Brazil in the 19th century and their influence was clear in those last two items. The pot roast had much in common with German sauerbraten thanks to a healthy shot of vinegar in the sauce, which added a palate-cleaning tang as well as tenderizing the meat. It wasn’t quite the same as anything you’d get in Munich thanks to a tingle of warm tropical spices, not to mention the white rice and boiled yuca on the side. I kept my interest to the last bite of the very substantial portion. Like everything else here, it arrived with a bowl of very good black beans in a rich, smoky broth, which Brazilians would mix with their rice.
The chicken parmigiana was rather more straightforward — the classic pounded and fried breast topped with sauce, mozzarella cheese, and more sauce. It hit the table with the breading on the patty still crisp and was a faithful rendition of a classic. Serving it with white rice and potato salad was a slightly questionable decision because that’s a lot of starch and meat, but if you ask they’ll sub one of those with vegetables. I recommend that you forego the rice because the potato salad is the better item of the two.
The balance was perfect on the salmon plate, which had grilled vegetables, rice, and salad along with a very large piece of fish that had been rubbed with mild spices and spent exactly the right amount of time on the grill. Salmon isn’t traditionally eaten in Brazil but is popular in overseas communities and a lot more available than the Amazon river fish that are on the menu in South America. I presume the flavor of the fish is different because one is tropical and the other a cold-water fish but having not visited Brazil I can’t say this for certain. (I will happily go check if any readers wish to fund my research but am not holding my breath.)
The most basic item was the Brazilian barbecue skewer, a kebab of the picanha cut which is tender and flavorful. Brazilians like simple spicing, generally just salt and pepper with a dash of garlic, though there is some hot garlic sauce on the table for those who like to kick it up. The generous skewer was served with a small amount of fresh tomato and onion salsa and grilled veggies, but unlike the other plates there was no rice or potato salad. There was a small pile of farofa, the toasted cassava flour that is never eaten by itself, but adds nutty flavors and a bit of texture when mixed with the beans and rice. A little of this goes a long way and they gave us a lot. I was the only thing left on the plate when we finished.
Panela’s serves wine and Brazilian beer, and their wine selection seems to be whatever is on sale – they had some French and Californian selections, but oddly none of the Chilean Malbecs that would complement this food well. The reds are also not well stored and were served too warm. They should put some thought into matching their wine list with their food, since it’s the only weak part of their operation.
Desserts are offered, mostly homemade cakes. We tried one that included a little orange in the batter and was frosted with chocolate. It wasn’t overly sweet, which we appreciated, and was a nice way to finish. Had we been in the mood for espresso to go with it we might have availed ourselves of some, since they have a machine and serve several variations.
On both recent visits to Panela’s we heard lilting Portuguese conversations at nearby tables, signs that the local expatriate community has found the place and is patronizing it. As we left one evening a samba band was setting up, and I’m planning to stop in again when the music will get everyone in the mood for the food. Samba has roots as complex as the cuisine, and it should be worth a few hours of eating, drinking, and listening.
Panelas Brazil Cuisine is at 2808 Phelan Ln. in North Redondo. Open daily at 10:30 a.m., close 9 p.m. Mon.-Sat., 7 p.m. Sun. Parking lot, wheelchair access good, beer and wine served. (310) 214-4143. panelasbrazil.com. B