Gem in an unlikely neighborhood [restaurant review]
Whatever you think of immigration (and in the current political climate it’s pretty certain you have some opinion), the countries that have a lot of it sure develop interesting cuisines. Fascinating hybrids develop in neighborhoods where cultures mingle, and the most appealing ones become part of the shared culinary heritage of their adopted country. This process has been at work for hundreds of years in Brazil, and that cuisine has been breaking news on the LA scene in recent months. While it’s a new thing in many other neighborhoods, the South Bay has some history, with no fewer than seven restaurants that range from tiny and modest cafes to more substantial establishments. One of these just switched from the first category to the second, though you might not have noticed because of their extremely odd location. Panelas Brazil Cuisine opened in a sliver of space on a side street in a residential neighborhood in 2013, and when I first reviewed them that year I had considerable doubts that they’d survive. Sometimes I’m happy to be wrong, and this was one of those times. They’ve thrived and expanded into an adjoining space and can now accommodate 10 times more people, plus room for…
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