Heavy on the surf, light on the turf [restaurant review]
Even people who have never eaten on the beach in a Mexican ramada might have a longing for that environment. Imagine the sound of waves in the distance, the scent of seafood frying or boiling mingled with the tang of chillies and vinegar, the sound of someone who’s never going to win a prize as a guitarist but strums quietly and soulfully in a corner. Your plate arrives filled with seafood and sides despite the fact that you paid out fewer pesos than you might have expected, and as you head for a table beneath the palms you stop at the cooler for a Modelo or Corona. Then… Excuse me, those daydreams about traveling have been getting more intense lately, and it seems to be spilling over into my writing. Let’s get to reality, so instead of the sound of the surf it’s cars on PCH, instead of a table below palm trees it’s a standard restaurant patio, and instead of a guitar it’s cars on PCH, again. The food is the straightforward, spicy Baja mix of fish tacos, ceviche, and other delights, and that’s why you came to Ensenada’s Surf & Turf despite the minimalist atmosphere. The café is next to the Rock and Roll Car Wash, where Aviation curves away from PCH, and some people miss the…
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