By Richard Foss

Note: Written in 1999

Every once in a while a businessman or artist takes a gamble so big that their success or failure is a matter for more than critics: it is news. The Titanic movie was news; a financially out-of-control production that made its backers rich, and garnered critical acclaim in the bargain. One can easily think of films that are more famous for the magnitude of their financial failure than for any chemistry between the producers, directors, writers, and actors.

The biggest gamble on the local dining scene is Kincaid’s, the large and lavishly decorated restaurant which is envisioned as the anchor tenant for the Redondo Pier. Cynics speculated that the place would be mobbed in summer and deserted in winter, a new tourist trap that everybody in the South Bay would go to – once. Optimists claimed that so much money wouldn’t be spent unless there was a winning concept behind it. Realists gave odds that the place would be good, but not great – another corporate place with a good view but not much character.

After several visits I can side with the optimists – Kincaid’s is better than I dared hope. The concept is indeed calculated, a classic chophouse overlooking the sea, but the execution is masterful.

We first visited the place for Sunday brunch, where we took an outside table and tried Dungeness crab and artichoke heart casserole, homemade hash with poached eggs, and french toast laced with orange zest. Though there were some problems with slow service, our meals were very good, promising enough that we resolved to go back for dinner. The outside table overlooking the surf was delightful, and we relaxed over a long and unhurried meal while basking in the spring sun.

The night we returned was different in several ways. First of all it was a rainy weeknight, and we therefore expected that a restaurant on the pier would be deserted. We were surprised to find the place cheery and bustling, looking far more alive than the restaurants we had passed on the way there. The table we were led to had a view of the room rather than the water, but the odd decor made that a virtue- we amused ourselves speculating on where the interior designer had found the huge and oddly shaped lamps that ringed the room. A waitress showed up promptly, gave her opinions on the best wines and specials of the evening, and withdrew to allow us to consider our options. The three of us selected a combination appetizer platter and a knife-and-fork salad for starters, with a smoked top sirloin and prawn combination, griddle hash, and a bowl of crab chowder for dinner.

The appetizer platter was a fine starter, and would have been a perfect dinner for someone who wanted to try a lot of tastes. I have had smoked shrimp before, but never done this successfully – they had a delicate smoke flavor but were still moist. The Dungeness crab, artichoke heart, and cheese casserole was as delicious as it had been at brunch, and the smoked vegetables and pork skewers were devoured with glee. The salad was successful in a basic and wholesome way – the Maytag blue cheese dressing was muted rather than robust, as suited the mix of raw and pickled vegetables.

The starters were served with delicious pan-bread that was slightly salty and had flavors of scallion, garlic, and cheese baked in. No butter was provided, but none was needed- it was perfect as it was.

Our main courses arrived with perfect timing, just as we finished the last bits of salad. The chowder was very creamy and buttery, a bit too much so for my taste, but the crab flavor was there behind the richness. The crab and shrimp hash was better, a cross between traditional crabcakes and hash, really. The corn, potatoes, and seafood were lightly spiced and cooked on a hot griddle to create the perfect crust, and I was happy with it even without the sauce. My wife preferred it with the sherry-cream sauce which was served on the side – a sauce which I found to be a perfect dip for the remaining pan bread.

My top sirloin and shrimp combination can best be characterized as a good steak and great shrimp- the same kind we had enjoyed on the appetizer platter, but I could have eaten them all night. The steak was uncommonly tender and of very high quality but wasn’t marinated or seasoned- the smoke flavor was plenty. We finished with desserts – a creme brulee which was the only disappointment of the evening and a good key lime pie.

On our second dinner visit we decided to try some of the game dishes, and ordered fettuccine with house-smoked pheasant and pan-seared venison with blackberry-sage sauce over leeks. As both of these dishes involved meats which present more of a challenge to the cook, prepared in ways which demand a bit more time and expertise, I fully expected them to be less successful. I was therefore surprised when these dishes were better than anything we had tried at our previous meal. The partridge was sensational- this is a game bird which can be dry when cooked wrong, but is incredibly good when done correctly. Tossing the grilled pheasant breast slices with aioli, grilled leeks, and pasta was nothing short of brilliant. The venison was also outstanding, rich in flavor and tender, perfectly complemented by the herb and berry flavors.

Kincaid’s has gotten just about everything right in an amazingly short time- the only flaw is the wine list, which is very badly organized and somewhat overpriced. This restaurant has all the elements to be wildly successful and a young, knowledgeable staff pulling it together, and it looks as if Redondo has finally found the tenant the pier has needed since Cattlemen’s burned down over ten years ago. Welcome, Kincaid’s – we’ve been waiting for you.

 Kincaid’s is located at 500 Fishermen’s Wharf- take Torrance Boulevard to the pier and follow the signs. Handicap access OK, plenty of parking. Full bar, reservations recommended- call 310-318-6060.

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