Lido di Manhattan Beach [RESTAURANT REVIEW]
The Lido Island near Venice is one of the most famously picturesque places in the world, a seven-mile stretch of villas and sparkling beaches. The name has become such a symbol of luxury that restaurants and nightclubs around the world have adopted it, hoping to capture a hint of the glamour. Parisians eat escargot and see expensive shows with minimally costumed starlets at their Lido, residents of Springfield, Massachusetts nibble Clams Casino at theirs, and locals in Riga dine on Latvian and international food in an atmosphere which I can only imagine is very much unlike Venice.
The exterior of Lido di Manhattan Beach is also rather unlike Venice, since a gondola in the parking lot of the shopping center on Rosecrans would look as out of place as, well, a gondola for instance. The odd location has kept the place from being as well known as it might be, and the slightly erratic food under the previous ownership kept it from being a major place of pilgrimage even among those who knew about it. This year the place changed hands, and based on a few meals since then the level of quality and innovation has changed for the better.
The general style of the restaurant has not changed – the space is stylish and modern, the menu a selection of eclectic Italian items with steaks, seafood, few original and modern items. On previous lunch visits I had enjoyed an excellent mushroom and artichoke salad and a very good Italian-style tuna melt, but for my first dinner I decided on a classic Caesar as a starter. Caesars say a lot about a place – will the dressing be robust or timid; will anchovies and pepper be overwhelming or overwhelmed? At Lido the garlic and pepper are used subtly, present as elements of the dressing but by no means dominating. Everything was in balance but a bit on the delicate side – while it was pleasant I like the dressing a bit more assertive. Those who like a mild caesar will love this one, but I’ll probably get the mushroom and artichoke salad on my next visit.
For main courses we decided on a shrimp pizza, baked halibut with olives in vermouth and caper sauce, a bowl of smoked chicken pasta with shallots and mushrooms, and linguini with chicken, sun-dried tomato, and spinach. Cooking seafood with olives is a classic Sicilian preparation, and as with a lot of Sicilian dishes the sauce was complex, with roasted tomatoes, artichoke hearts, garlic, and herbs all making their contribution. It might seem that the flavor of the fish would be obscured beneath it all, but instead everything came together in perfect harmony. I have rarely had Italian seafood this good anywhere, and I’d happily have it again.
Those who like a simpler dish might prefer the charbroiled chicken with sundried tomato and spinach. This used the sharpness of the spinach and sweetness of the tomato very well, the sauce a thick ragout that was very satisfying but not heavy. The smoked chicken with shallots and mushrooms was also a winner, the light basil-cream sauce a perfect foil to the taste of the mushrooms. One of these days when I’m feeling in a vegetarian mood I might even get this without the chicken, as the mushrooms and basil were so good together that I’d like to see if they work as a main course.
We had ordered the shrimp pizza mainly to see what kind of crust the kitchen was capable of, since on the average a shrimp pizza is just a cheese pizza with shrimp tossed on top. In this case there was a bit more thought than usual to the flavor, with roasted garlic and sundried tomatoes adding a lot of zip to a usually pedestrian item. It was excellent, and as I had hoped, the crust had the right exterior crispness and inner softness to make me want more.
We accompanied our meal with a bottle of Chateau Souverrain Syrah, a good match with all our meals and reasonably priced at $28.00. The wine list here has some good bottles at a reasonable mark-up and a fair by-the-glass selection.
Dinner at Lido is mid-priced for Manhattan Beach – starters run from $8.50 to $12.50, entrees from $10.00 to $24.00. It’s possible to spend a lot more in this town for food that isn’t half as good, which makes this a bargain in my book.
Lido di Manhattan Beach is located at 1558 Rosecrans Avenue, in the parking lot across from Bristol Farms. Open for lunch Mo-Fr and dinner daily. Full bar, handicap access good, children welcome. Phone 310-536-0730 for reservations. Website at lidodimanhattan.com