Malibu Eatery’s fishy claim
Dinner from Malibu Eatery after being decanted from the to-go boxes: from upper left, burger, fish sandwich, chowder, and crabcakes. Photo by Richard Foss “Great boasts deserve great scrutiny,” said someone wise. I’m not sure who that was, because I overheard someone attributing the saying to an obscure Victorian author without saying which one. Pithy wisdom may be valued regardless of the source, and this maxim is equally useful for political assertions and restaurant menus. That maxim was what motivated me to visit Malibu Eatery, because they claim to serve “LA’s Best Fish Sandwich.” This is a mighty assertion – I’ve had pretty fantastic fish sandwiches at Connie & Ted’s in West Hollywood and Little Jewel of New Orleans in Chinatown, among other places. If they had just boasted that they had the best fish sandwich in Redondo Beach I would have still been skeptical, because I have had fine ones at various local haunts. Given that Malibu is famed for high style and ocean views, the restaurant’s name might lead you to expect a smart casual place specializing in seafood. Instead the restaurant on Pacific Coast Highway, at Catalina Avenue, is a neat counter service place that serves…
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