Mama D’s
By Richard Foss
Note: Written 1999
We who review restaurants often make much of the genteel atmosphere of fine dining – the relaxing, tranquil ambiance that allows us to forget all cares and focus on our food and our lovely and loving dining companions. This is indeed a joy – but by no means the only way to dine. One particular restaurant in the South Bay is loud, more than slightly chaotic, and quite informal, and local diners love it just as it is.
There is almost always a wait to get into Mama D’s, though by the mysterious mathematics of such things it never seems to be a long one. It is a wait that some people actually look forward to, because while you stand or sit outside and chat with friends you can enjoy complimentary chunks of garlic-herb focaccia. The fragrant bread being passed around only one example of Mama D’s olfactory advertising – the other is the scent of garlic, which can be detected over a block away when the wind is right.
Once you actually enter Mama D’s, you have the immediate impression of chaos. Waiters and busboys scurry from place to place amid a clatter of plates and a loud buzz of conversation from other tables. On our most recent visit we were seated in a small table at the center of the room, and the din reflecting from the iron ceiling made conversation in normal tones impossible. We sorted out our orders as our waiter brought more of the garlic focaccia and some herbed olive oil for dipping.
We started with a caesar salad, an item which I often order in Italian restaurants because it is such a good indicator of the attitude of the kitchen. This one was robust, creamy, and very garlicky, with crisp, fresh croutons, and was served in a portion that made it a quite decent starter for two people. On the downside, my decision to accompany the salad with a glass of fine Chianti was a mistake, given the fact that the wine was served in a thick juice glass which was still hot from the dishwasher. Serving wine this way may be a fashion statement, but it sure won’t encourage repeat orders of better wines.
My dining companions and I had decided on linguine with clams and a white sauce, penne with sausage in fra diavolo sauce, and a sausage and olive pizza. My penne fra diavolo was everything I had expected – fra diavolo sauce is a spicy marinara, and the dish I had was probably the hottest I have ever had in an Italian restaurant. Still, it was not one-dimensional – flavors of the homemade sausage, the slightly sweet tomato sauce, and herbs and garlic came through. This plate of pasta could have placed well in a chili cookoff, and I enjoyed it in the same way I enjoy a bowl of good New Mexico Red.
The clam linguine was by contrast delicate, and had a very good mix of seafood, herb, and butter flavors. I rarely order clam pasta simply because getting the meat out of the shell generally involves transferring the sauce to the front of my shirt. I enjoyed a bite of my companion’s pasta anyway and let him deal with the cleaning bill.
I also had a slice of the pizza, which had a pleasantly chewy crust, just the right amount of cheese, and a flavorful sauce that complemented the toppings quite well. The portion size was such that I was able to give it the test approved at college dorms everywhere – it tasted great at breakfast too.
A number of desserts were offered, but we decided to forego them this time- we had slightly over-ordered and were quite agreeably full. We appreciated the quietness of the winter evening outside as much as we had the happy, boisterous atmosphere inside, and could walk on the strand afterward in the cool mist pleasantly warmed from within.
Mama D’s is a Manhattan Beach landmark for a good reason- the flavors and the atmosphere are bigger than life, the bill is moderate, and the location a block from the beach is unbeatable.
Mama D’s is located at 1125-A Manhattan Avenue in Manhattan Beach. Handicap access OK but tight to side tables – children welcome. No private lot – street or city lot parking only. Beer and wine served. Open for breakfast and lunch daily. Call 546-1492 for take-out.