Matisse [RESTAURANT REVIEW]
Woody Allen once wrote a short comic piece that considered what might have happened if the French impressionists had been dentists instead of artists. I much prefer considering the results if they had been chefs. In fact, a few of them actually were talented in the kitchen, and Salvador Dali wrote and illustrated a cookbook that has some delightful and ingenious recipes. I was privileged to attend a ten-course meal prepared from that book, and the memory of that brilliant dinner has been with me for over a decade.
Henri Matisse was more noted for the colors on his palette than the vividness of his cooking; he liked simple Southern French dishes and ate only once a day. Nevertheless it’s not inappropriate that the restaurant in the new Ayres Hotel is called Matisse, since the presentation and flair of many items evokes both the exuberance of his canvases and some fine old-fashioned French ideas.
This is not to say that the cooking here is purely French or suited to the peasant palate – prime steaks like the ones served here are hard to find in France at any price, and truffled lobster salad and Thai spring rolls aren’t the diet of a country farmer. My wife and I were momentarily tempted by a six course tasting menu that sounded delightful, but we decided that we didn’t have the time or appetite on this particular evening. Instead we ordered appetizers of Santa Fe crabcakes and seared Hudson Valley foie gras, a house salad split for two, and entrees of scallops Brandade and a ribeye steak.
The starters were preceded by crusty bread with an unusual tapenade that had a bit of chopped fig along with the olives, capers, and other ingredients. Instead of the usual olive tang it was slightly sweet and sour effect, unusual but habit forming. The variety of breads served with it gave us something to experiment with, and we tried it with peppered flatbread, crusty French, and a very nice raisin bread.
Our starters both showed ambition, though not with equal results. The foie gras was silky and rich inside with a delicate crust from searing, a combination of textures that perfectly complemented the grilled sour apples and aged balsamic vinegar that garnished the plate. This ranks with the best foie gras I’ve ever had, and I have enjoyed it many times. Alasm the crabcake was not as successful. Though made with the best East Coast crab, the mix had too much flour as a binder and was both bready and slightly overspiced. The flavor and texture of the crab was there, but buried under too many layers. I enjoy both New Mexico spicing and crabcakes, but this starter was not an argument for mixing the two.
The Matisse salad restored the balance, the mix of spinach, endive, watercress, and gorgonzola cheese interesting enough by itself, but well matched with sherry vinegar and olive oil dressing and candied roasted pecans. Greens, nuts, and cheese are the basic building blocks of just about every salad in the world, but there is still room for combinations that are fresh and surprising. I could easily come back at lunch for this salad and have a full and healthy meal, and since it’s only seven bucks for a large portion, I’m highly likely to do so.
Our main courses showed the kitchen’s skill with both American and French-inspired dishes. The steak was a classic ribeye with little more than pepper for seasoning, served with mashed potatoes and vegetables – the classic American dinner. Granted, the average home chef doesn’t have a 1600 degree grill to get that perfect exterior while keeping the inside a proper medium rare, but in concept it was something any chef could do. A dinner like this shows off the quality of the ingredients, and the quality here was high indeed.
The scallops were anything but average home cooking, a showy presentation of classic Provencal flavors. The seafood had been quickly seared, then finished in a lobster reduction and set on top of a dollop of spiced mashed potatoes and presented with asparagus and a vegetable medley. The plate looked like a Gourmet Magazine display, and everything on it was delicious.
We accompanied our meal with glasses of wine from the by-the-glass list, which was large and well chosen. The scallops were enhanced by a Rombauer Chardonnay, though at twelve dollars a glass it was priced on the high side. I went with an old favorite and chose a BV Pinot Noir with the steak and found it to be a very decent complement with the seafood as well.
The dessert tray was offered, but we declined – alas, like many around town, everything was very rich, and we were more in a mood for something light after such a robust meal. We would have stayed for a glass of dessert wine, my favorite option in such a situation, but we had been dining late and were a bit tired. The meal had been excellent as it was, and we left content.
Matisse is not an everyday pleasure – the starters are priced between 7 and 18 dollars, with main courses between $23 and $34. Still, for a special occasion or a splurge, it’s a very good choice, and if you’re meeting someone who is arriving by freeway, there’s no chance that they can miss the place. This fine restaurant’s location in a hotel may be incongruous in some ways, but it’s certainly handy for that.
Matisse is located inside the Ayers Hotel at 14400 Hindry. Reservations recommended, full bar. Handicap access good. Call 310-536-0807.