Rock’n Fish keeps on rockin’ [RESTAURANT REVIEW]

Stephanie Hawks holds a plate of delicious blackened halibut at Rock'n Fish. Photo

Stephanie Hawks holds a plate of delicious blackened halibut at Rock’n Fish. Photo .

One of the advantages for a restaurant decorated in classic motifs is that it ages gracefully. That which isn’t in fashion when it’s built doesn’t go out of style, and is more likely to look elegant and graceful when more contemporary designs are starting to be embarrassing.

Rock’nFish so resembles some early Manhattan Beach buildings so that you might think it’s from the early part of the last century rather than a mere fifteen years ago. The murals by the bar and the stained glass mermaid have a 1930’s look, and the woodwork and bar design hark back to an even earlier age and a New Orleans zip code. The “rock” in the Rock’nFish is luckily not taken literally, and at dinner the music is eclectic and kept at a moderate level. There’s plenty of background sound from the buzz of conversation, because it’s a rare night when the place isn’t near capacity. The sound level creeps up after the dinner hour, but never to blasting levels.

As you might expect from the name, the menu here is heavy on seafood, much of it prepared over the oak grill that can be scented at least four blocks away when the wind is right. The only starter that spends time over that fire is the grilled artichoke with roasted garlic aioli, which is delicious but overpriced at fifteen dollars. My preferred appetizers are the clam chowder, which has a hint of bacon and lots of buttery herbal flavors, or the crabcakes with spicy remoulade.

Another option is to start with a salad, though you should be aware that they’re quite substantial and best eaten as a main course or split between at least three people. The most popular salad here is the blue cheese wedge, which this restaurant popularized locally, and they make a respectable Cobb and Caesar. My favorite, though, is the shrimp and avocado Louie, a salad that was recorded in San Francisco as early as 1910 and uses a dressing based on mayonnaise, chili sauce, and heavy cream. The version here makes a case for bringing it back, because the pile of greens topped with seafood and rich dressing is an echo of the gilded age. As fine as the other salads on the menu are, they are widely available and this one is a rarity.

If you want to keep eating like a railroad baron you might order a steak, and while the teriyaki ribeye isn’t historically appropriate it’s the best one here. The others are all good, but that one’s stellar. However I might suggest that you steer toward some of the items from the “American Regional Specialties” section of the list, though that description is accurate only if you take an expansive view of what “American” means. Scampi with linguini, mushrooms, and capers doesn’t qualify by most definitions, but that’s splitting hairs – it’s delicious. Louisiana redfish over maque choux, a creole vegetable stew of corn, bell pepper, onion, bacon, and celery, does qualify and is one of the best things on the menu. The asparagus and tequila butter may not be traditional, but they add to the interest of the dish.

I’m a bit less enamored of the shrimp and sausage gumbo, which is described as spicy but has been mild every time I’ve tried it. It’s a rich seafood soup with a smoky herbal broth, but it doesn’t have quite the brightness of flavor of the Crescent City original. I’ve been happier with the cioppino, which is packed with seafood in rich tomato and fish stock, and with the blackened salmon sandwich. If someone in your party is seafood-phobic and wants a simple meal, they can always fall back on the hefty rendition of the traditional burger.    

Most dishes come with your choice of sides, which include the usual variations on potatoes as well as several more interesting choices. My favorite is the Szechuan green beans, though the spinach with crispy garlic is a close second. On a recent visit I tried Brussels sprouts with macadamia nuts and grapes as a side to fish tacos. The tacos were terrific, and if you have a sweet tooth the sprouts might turn you on; I would have preferred almonds or pistachios to the macadamias.

Whatever you order for your meal you’ll have no trouble pairing it with a drink, because the wine list is large, well chosen, and reasonably priced for the neighborhood. They make excellent cocktails too, including a fruity, rummy navy grog that is the specialty of the house.

Dessert is the only area of Rock’nFish’s menu that is lacking, because only four items are offered and all are sweet and creamy. The bread pudding with Jack Daniels sauce was the best of the offerings I’ve tried, but something light like a fruit tart or pie or perhaps beignets would have been welcome.

Prices here are reasonable given the beachside location and quality of the food; lunch runs between $20 and $30, and our most recent dinner for two was $135 with two glasses of wine and a cocktail.

Rock’nFish has spawned an offshoot at LA Live and a family of more casual restaurants under the Rock’nBrews name, and the reason for the success is obvious. There will always be a following for the classics, especially when they’re updated with only the best elements of modern ideas.

Rock’nFish is at 120 Manhattan Beach Boulevard in Manhattan Beach. Open 11:30 a.m. – 10 p.m. Mon-Thu, 11:30 a.m. – 11 p.m. Fri-Sat, 10 a.m.-10 p.m. Sun. Street parking or adjacent pay lot, wheelchair access to part of restaurant and steep sidewalk outside. Some vegetarian/vegan dishes, full bar, corkage $25. Menu at rocknfishrestaurants.com, phone 310-379-9900.

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