Something big on Artesia, classics close, stylish pies in Redondo
A La Carte column for 22 December 2022
The Artesia Renaissance Continues: In a recent column I mentioned signs of new life in North Redondo, and a new announcement puts that into high gear. It’s a big one, physically and culturally, a multi-kitchen development called GrubHaus that will take the space formerly occupied by Yanagi Kitchen and Kurt Hardware. This is not a “ghost kitchen” turning out multiple brands for delivery, but a dozen separate food stalls in an area with patio and rooftop seating. Owner Stephen Plache promises that these will not be national brands, but “owner-operators with deep existing experience, brand equity and social following.” That’s a first for this area, and so is another amenity: underground parking. As part of the agreement there will be extensive landscaping and new trees added, which should help alleviate an otherwise blocky and barren stretch of Artesia. You have a while to wait before your first meal there, though, because GrubHaus probably won’t open until 2024…
And Many Closings: Several restaurants shuttered in the last month, and two were local landmarks. The oldest was Leo’s on Inglewood Avenue, which had been in business since 1948. I never found their food particularly impressive, but enjoyed the hacienda decor and friendly staff, and will be sad to see them gone. I hope whoever takes over respects the architecture and incorporates it into their new enterprise, but know that’s not likely, because it’s pretty but not efficient… The Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf in Riviera Village closed despite being a popular hangout, and it seems to be part of the implosion of this chain. They used to have several locations in the area, but the company website’s store locator shows none between Beverly Hills and Long Beach. Condolences to anyone who has unused gift cards in their wallet, unless you’re willing to drive a long way for coffee… The same is true for fans of Coco’s, since the location at 182nd and Hawthorne in Torrance suddenly closed. I liked their pies and found everything else they served to be mediocre, but they were a longtime landmark on the Boulevard… 924 Kitchen in Manhattan Beach closed too, despite having an interesting, healthy, contemporary food concept, and generally good execution. I think their problem was with branding more than anything else – their nondescript name and low street profile made them easy to miss, and I bet some people who are reading this are trying to figure out where this location is, despite passing it every day… Another closure isn’t a restaurant, but the place many people went after visiting one – Pat’s II dive bar in Redondo. It was a scruffy place for cheap drinks, but will be missed by those who either forgave or loved the place’s shabby eccentricity…
Congratulations Are In Order: For over two years the tiny I-Naba sushi bar on Highland was a destination for sushi fans with big budgets, but this June they quietly closed and merged their operations with their sister restaurant on Hawthorne Boulevard in Torrance. That move means that Torrance now has the distinction of hosting the South Bay’s first Michelin-starred restaurant. When I dined there the experience was fantastic, but with meals starting at about $300 per person I don’t anticipate visiting often…
Openings: I had no idea that Ike’s Love & Sandwiches was so popular until multiple readers emailed me to ask when they’ll be open in Manhattan Beach. The answer is now – they served the first hoagies on Tuesday. It’s unusual to open just in time to give your staff the day off for Christmas, but for some folks having a job may be the best present possible… Still in the fast food world, the respected Kebab Shop chain will be opening a new location on PCH in El Segundo in early 2023. It’s more of a surprise that our area is getting a new location of The Pie Hole, a famous upscale dessert shop that has secured a space in Riviera Village. Their original location in the Arts District in Los Angeles was so popular that they’ve opened or franchised bakeries as far away as Japan and Saudi Arabia. The pies are very good and very expensive – $45 for a whole pie, or nine bucks a slice. The location is 1830 S. Elena, which puts them across the street from the Little French Bakery and the Redondo Farmer’s Market. No word yet on how soon they’ll open… Guisado’s is also open in the former Crafty Minds, adding another Mexican place to a downtown with several options, and the Street Corner market and coffee bar in the former Poop Deck is getting close…
Dining Deck Harbinger? The city of El Segundo closed Richmond Street during the pandemic to enable open air dining, and some restaurateurs obviously thought that it would be a permanent situation. They built a heavy timber bulwark across both ends of the closed areas and topped it with planters of cacti and ornamentals, which must have cost tens of thousands of dollars. They’re probably regretting that now, as the street will be reopened in January. This will be a heavy blow to the Slice & Pint, reducing their seating by at least a third, and taking away the most popular space at lunch. Restaurateurs in other beach cities might be worried that it’s a trend, but this is something of a special case. Decks in other cities have reduced parking and impacted traffic in a minor way, but the closure of Richmond diverted a large amount of traffic to other streets that were already single lane. I have made no secret that I am a fan of outdoor dining even as I recognize that it takes delicacy to reduce the impacts, and I hope the ones elsewhere stay open. If you want a last pizza and beer on the street, you have until December 31….
Random bits: Pa-Do in Manhattan Beach has a new chef – Albert Kim, who founded the restaurant but took a leave of absence after suffering a stroke, is no longer there. Al is involved with a new operation in El Segundo, and I wish him luck. I have never met Al, but the story of his recovery, as detailed in this publication a few months ago, has been an inspiration… Sushi Roku in the Manhattan Mall has opened for lunch, so those who appreciate stylish Japanese food at midday have a new option…
The Plastic Battle: I have been acquiring an involuntary collection of plastic containers, since I try to reuse them rather than send them to landfills. Of late I have been keeping a satchel of these in my car and taking them into restaurants when I expect to have leftovers. Some people find this odd, but it has multiple benefits. First of all, the ones I bring are the sturdy ones that actually have structural integrity rather than the flimsy ones that leak or crack, so I don’t have to deal with spills in the car. Since I carry a variety of sizes, I don’t have the problem of being given a gigantic container for a small amount of food, with consequent saving of space in my refrigerator. There’s a packet of real silverware in that bag too, to deal with places that give you flimsy single-use forks to dine in — I don’t mind washing them at home. It’s a win in multiple ways, and I encourage you to try it…
False Alarms: Before I close this column, I’d like to thank all of the people who have given me tips about restaurant openings, closings, and events. I really do appreciate all of them. However, I’d like to note that the fact that you’ve seen a restaurant for sale on a real estate site does not necessarily mean it’s closing any time soon. There are restaurants in the Beach Cities that have been listed for years at unrealistic prices and have remained open, so that listing only means the owner would like to sell, not that any deal is imminent. Owners need restaurants to remain open because it’s easier to sell a place that has valid permits, and those expire when not used…
And In Closing: If you know a restaurant opening I might’ve missed, a culinary event that should be covered, or just about anything related to food that I should cover, please send the information my way. I’m at richard@richardfoss.com. And as long as you’re on the internet, check out past restaurant reviews on our website at EasyReaderNews.com/restaurants. ER