Surfing
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Surfing is a water sport in which a person rides on the front or bottom of a moving wave that usually moves towards the shore. Surfable waves are mostly found in the ocean and sea, but can be found in lakes or rivers as a “standing wave” or tidal wave.
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Definition of big wave surfing
Terrible falls, the incessant blows of the flow of water and the inevitable ejection. Big wave surfing can be quite painful and sometimes your life is in serious danger.
Big waves have taught surfers to prepare for serious occasions. Their daily work requires a perfect balance between physical health and psychological preparation.
Big wave surfers are not born. You can become a conqueror of big waves. But there’s too much at stake when you’re riding down the front face of a wave at 50 mph (80 km/h) with a massive wall of water chasing you behind you.
The best big wave surfers of all time share the commandments of big wave surfing. So, what goes through their heads when it’s time to ride the biggest wave of their lives?
- Never jump on the first wave of the coming crowd.
- Let the foamy wave control the movement of your body. If you are caught in a wave or if you fall, there is no need to resist the power of the rushing water. You will lose energy and oxygen.
- Always wear a safety vest.
- Manage panic, let fear do its work. Panic attacks are characterized by fear of distress or loss of control, even when there is no real danger. And you don’t need it.
- Learn to fall. Always jump away from the board, avoid frontal diving, protect your head, keep your composure and keep your eyes open underwater.
- Practice yoga and pilates, improve your eating habits and increase your lung capacity.
First surf trip. Where?
Surfing is an emotion, and emotions caught from the first wave will remain a vivid memory for a long time! And if you caught your first wave in a non-standard place, then this adds even more emotions to you, especially if some people do not even know that surfing exists in this place at all.
Beginners are frightened by the information (not always correct) that there can be big waves in unfamiliar countries. You just need to look at it from the other side: if the waves are small, then everyone starts to concentrate on spots where there are at least some waves, thus there is a glut of people in one place. And if big waves come, it means that spots that usually do not work begin to work, so surfers with different levels of training can be distributed in different places. Surf school instructors bring students to the spots strictly according to their level of skiing and select the most comfortable place for you, based on the forecast and conditions.
Sometimes beginner surfers are intimidated by spots that you need to get to by boat and surf from it. You should not be afraid of this either: firstly, the instructor will tell you everything in detail and prepare you for such surfing, and secondly, riding in such a place, on the contrary, can be a big plus and help save the strength that a surfer spends rowing to get to to the lineup.
How to prepare your body for surfing
Our body and our brain are very fond of exercise. The more you exercise, the more enjoyment you get.
Surfing is one of the most demanding sports in terms of the effort you put in: endurance, muscle strength, flexibility, balance – you will need it all in one session.
Functional training for surfing should start as early as possible before a surf trip – two months in advance if your body is already familiar with shock loads, and at least six months in advance if your activities are limited to a little exercise in the morning.
In order for your body to harmoniously prepare for surfing, you need to develop different qualities, so different workouts are needed. We recommend making a training plan in such a way that it includes several types of exercises.
