More than just slices at Village Pizza in Redondo Beach
Photo by Chelsea Schreiber
What I like about RivieraVillage is that it actually resembles a village. Walk down Catalina and the adjacent streets and you see the kind of family-owned businesses and eccentric shops that make it feel like a small town where locals actually shop and dine. True, some of the real village essentials are missing, such as a hardware store, post office, and anyplace where you can buy a plain pair of gym socks, but the atmosphere is still there.
Village Pizza does their part to maintain the feeling, the old-fashioned neon in the restaurant window just a bit garish, the shy but ever-present owner nodding and murmuring a hello to diners as they enter. The interior is colorful and the people behind the counter friendly and helpful, and happy to tell you what is homemade as opposed to brought in. (Almost everything but the desserts, in case you were wondering.)
My wife and I stopped in for dinner at the end of a trying day and spent some time gawking at the menu while trying to figure out what to order. It wasn’t easy – they serve much more than pizza here, and we considered some pastas before deciding that since pizza was the specialty, pizza we should get on the first visit. In order to be healthy, we needed to have vegetables with it. A salad would have been appropriate, but we decided on fried zucchini and a bottle of wine. The bottle of Menage à Trois blend was modestly priced, the zucchini sticks fresh and crisp with a nicely herbed breading, and we could feel the tension dissipating as we relaxed and nibbled.
We had ordered two pizzas, not because we really intended to eat that much, but because leftover pizza is one of the most perfect breakfast foods. The mushroom, spinach, and eggplant was conventional but very good, with a medium crust that had a crisp bottom and nicely chewy interior, just the way I like them. Unusually for a pizza with moist vegetables, the middle wasn’t soggy, which was a pleasant surprise. The other pizza we ordered was a bit more unusual – a chicken alfredo pizza with artichoke hearts, spinach, mushrooms, and roasted garlic. This was a standout, and if you’re ever going to be at a table where several people are sharing pizzas, make this one of them. The creamy, cheesy sauce is delightful, and it allows the oregano, basil, and other herbs to shine.
A few days later I stopped in for lunch and decided to take advantage of a special – soup or salad, a sandwich, and a fountain drink for under $10. I selected lentil soup with pasta and vegetables, and a grilled chicken sandwich with basil pesto and spinach leaves. It was a lot of food for a modest price, and the soup was delicious – a chicken broth packed with celery, carrots, and lentils with a delicate oniony flavor. The sandwich was outstanding – a seasoned, pounded breast that had spent the proper time on the grill to be juicy and flavorful, along with raw spinach leaves and sweet caramelized onions. The pesto was zingy, the bread fresh, and it was all in all one of the best lunch deals in the SouthBay. Add that I got to enjoy this at a sunny sidewalk table and you have the recipe for a way to perk up the middle of any day.
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A few days later I tried takeout – my wife wasn’t feeling well and wanted comfort food, which in her case means soup. I didn’t have time to make some from scratch and remembered how much I liked the soup on my previous visit, so I called to ask what was offered that day. The lentil was still there, along with sundried tomato, vegetable, and cream of potato. She opted for the cream of potato, and I ordered sausage lasagna and a Caesar salad.
Cream of potato soup is subtle compared to almost anything served at a typical Italian restaurant – the potato itself does have flavor, but the seasonings need to be used judiciously in order to avoid overwhelming it. The balancing act was well handled here, and it was a hearty cold-weather warmer. I was less delighted with the lasagna, not because of the flavor, but because of the unexpected style in which it was made. I had noticed that cheese, beef, or sausage lasagna were all offered and was impressed that they made three kinds daily. That’s not so – they make cheese lasagna and top it with a Bolognese sauce or sausage slices with marinara depending on which you order. The lasagna was dense and pretty good if you want cheese lasagna, but as a meat lasagna it didn’t come up to standard. Part of the joy of a good meat lasagna is the flavor of seasoned beef or sausage that has been baked in, and I just don’t like the topped version as much.
That one item aside, every item I’ve had from Village Pizza has been excellent, especially at the price point – you can figure on dining here for under $20 per person, and with almost everything homemade that’s a deal. It’s home-style food and not the place to impress your date, unless you happen to have a date who appreciates the simple pleasures in life. If you do have that date, hold on to them – such people are rare and should be cherished.
Village Pizza is at 1725 S. Catalina Ave., Redondo Beach; open daily at 11 a.m., closing 10 p.m. midweek and 11 p.m. on Friday and Saturday. Street parking only, wheelchair access good; beer and wine served; delivery available. (310) 373-4545 or go to rivieravillagepizza.com.