Best Japanese food: ROK Sushi Kitchen

The sign over the door does say “Rok Sushi Kitchen,” but they serve much more than sushi, and the list of entrees and sides goes far beyond Japanese tradition. They do offer salmon baked in ginger-soy sauce and steak teriyaki, but with nontraditional sides like wasabi mashed potatoes and tempura onion rings, and Chilean seabass with a raspberry reduction goes far into American contemporary territory. The pastas are a top item – a surprisingly good fettuccine Alfredo, shrimp Diablo, and the house specialty, lobster and crab ravioli. There are Japanese overtones to their Western dishes and vice-versa – the kitchen here takes an expansive idea of what is Japanese, and they are adept at it.

1200 Hermosa Avenue, HB (310) 798-4765

Runner-up: Izakaya by Katsu-ya, 1133 Highland Ave, Manhattan Beach, (310) 796-1888

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