Coastal Hermosa survives early storms, change for the better  

by Richard Foss

I am not a sports fan, but since so many people around me are, I have absorbed ideas from that sphere of existence. One concept from the award season has always seemed problematic, the awarding of the “most improved” trophy to athletes. Nominees must wince when they hear that they’re in the running, because to be eligible, they must have had a pretty rocky start.

I occasionally offer my own version of this award in the form of second reviews of restaurants that were shaky on the first assessment. It’s rarely necessary, but sometimes a place that was panned on the first evaluation changes so radically that a second look is demanded.

One such establishment is Hermosa’s Coastal, which opened with a muddy concept, erratic food, and service that was nothing short of chaotic. Ordering was via an app that was still buggy months after they opened, leaving hapless servers to cope with long delays in getting food and drinks to the right table. After a meal at which some people had finished eating while others hadn’t received appetizers, I figured the restaurant wouldn’t last long.

That was early in 2023. About a year later I started receiving reports that things had changed. A new manager had shaken the place up, ditched the glitchy iPads, revamped the menu, and added some respectable wines and beers to the previously uninspired list. A few items had carried over from the previous menu, but it was almost a completely different restaurant under the same roof. I was skeptical, but had to see for myself.

Our first visit to the revamped establishment was on a weekday evening, and while the interior looked about the same, everything else had changed. Conventional menus replaced the tablets, the wine list had gone from 10 selections to over 30, and the previously seafood-centric menu had diversified with sandwiches, pizzas, and other offerings.

In three visits since new manager Tom Powers took over, I experienced consistently good food and well-coordinated service. There had been changes in some of the items that we had tried before — the Caesar dressing had been bland, but now had an unusual light citrusy tang and a modest amount of anchovy. I like a more robust anchovy flavor, but enjoyed this variation. The lobster mac, a standout when they opened, was still excellent, and lobster rolls still had their New England charm.

Top left to right, Lincoln Park burger, Lobster Mac, and tater tots.

Among the new items we tried were the competition chili, a “Lincoln Park” burger, a breakfast burrito, and a daily special of Jidori chicken sliders. The chili has a relatively thin broth with ground beef, black beans, and chunks of tomato, with bright heat from multiple types of peppers, very different from the thick, smoky, cumin-laced Texas red. Powers was our server on a weekend brunch when the crowd was light, and had time to explain his chili at great length. If you give a true chili fanatic an opening to discuss their subject you may be there a while, but Tom was both insightful and entertaining. I like his chili, but won’t stop making mine with the thicker broth and more cumin and garlic.

Just about every restaurant near the pier has to have a burger on the menu, and I tried the Lincoln Park with blue cheese, bacon, and avocado with an Italian sausage added. It was a delicious mess with smoke from the bacon and spicy, garlicky overtones from the sausage. I’d advise you wear old clothes if you order one, because some of the sauce will escape. Fries or tater tots are offered as a side, and I recommend the tots with cotija cheese, scallions, and pico de gallo.    

Coastal Breakfast Burrito. Photos by Richard Foss

The breakfast burrito is a standout, made with eggs, Mexican cheese, good chorizo, tater tots, avocado crema, and pico de gallo. Powers mentioned that he modeled these on the ones served at Baran’s 2239, which are his favorite when he’s not dining at his own restaurant. Since Baran’s serves theirs only once a week and only to go, they probably aren’t worried about the competition, and may take it as a compliment.

When we were there for brunch Tom brought out some jidori chicken sliders, in which the chunk of meat had been marinated, coated with seasoned panko batter, and fried before being placed on a bun topped with spicy bread and butter pickle slices from the Hermosa Butcher Shop. The spicy pickles make this work – they add the perfect touch of sweet, sour, and piquant plus a damp crunch to complement the dry crunch of the batter.

The only section of the menu that is still in need of improvement is the desserts, which are limited to homemade cookies or an ice cream Sundae. I’m not a big fan of either, so I gave these a pass.

Athletes who are voted most improved gain respect for their striving, but little else from the award. A restaurant that gets that nod may get something more valuable, a second chance from diners who were alienated by the previous poor experience. Based on recent experiences, Coastal deserves that second look.

Coastal is at 844 Hermosa Avenue in Hermosa Beach. Open 4 to 9 p.m.  Tues, through Thu.11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Fri. 9 a.m. to 9 p.m. Sat. 9 a.m. to 8 p.m. Su. Closed Mon. Street parking. Wheelchair access okay. Wine and beer. Moderate volume level. (424) 231-8658. HBCoastal.com. ER