Enchantment and celebrity chickens in Hermosa, a Mexican classic departs and more dining news

The Little French Bakery has opened its second location, at 3319 Highland Avenue in North Manhattan Beach. Photo by Richard Foss

A La Carte column October 20, 2022

The nights are getting cool, but the local dining scene is hot as ever, with lots of openings to report and more on the way. First, though, news about a few places of note that we have lost.
The Market Report: Moon’s Market offered friendly service in a cluttered, slightly shabby environment, and had a strong local following. They closed recently and will be replaced by Nick & Sons, operated by restaurant veteran Nicholas Nahigian. Nick is refurbishing the space and enhancing period details that were previously obscured, and will keep stocking everyday groceries while bringing in an upscale deli. The sons mentioned in the market’s name won’t be helping run the business immediately, since the older one just turned three and is not quite ready to recommend wines to customers. Watch for an opening in November…   
Two Going Down: The Aristo Cafe in Torrance has been a destination for Arabic food for 25 years, popular despite an odd location on a side street near Hawthorne and PCH. Their building is being redeveloped so they will close by the end of the year, and they haven’t found a new space yet. They’ve delivered standard dishes well made, and will be missed. The redevelopment won’t affect the neighboring Hank’s Pizza location… Las Brisas, which has served Mexican food on Artesia since 1972, has a “For Lease” sign up. The restaurant is still in operation, but will close in December. The Gutierrez family has operated the place with very few changes in style and menu, and when they serve the last burrito here a local landmark will be gone…    

Happier News: There were lots of openings in the last month, and we’ll start at the north of our range and work south. Sauced BBQ turned the former Salt Creek Grill in El Segundo into a Texas roadhouse on steroids, with yee-hah decor, an impressive bar, and very loud country rock. The outdoor patio is a quieter place to try their barbecue and eclectic sides. On the day we visited they were still getting the kinks out of the operation and the meat was a bit overdone, but their sauces have plenty of flavor and the jalapeno cheese grits were quite good. (2015 Park Place, ES)… The Little French Bakery’s second location in Manhattan Beach has slightly more interior space, but don’t count on dining in – it means

A server greets customers at Encanto in Hermosa. Photo by Richard Foss

there’s room for two tables rather than none, and a couple of stools. The pastries are baked in-house and are as luscious as the ones at the original location. (3319 Highland, MB… There’s an even smaller food service outlet that has no seating at all, the Bougie Bakes cart in the Manhattan Village Mall. It’s owned by local residents Meghan and Ryan Quinn, and is a rare example of a locally owned operation in a place otherwise inhabited by chain stores. Their specialty is gluten free and sugar free cookies, and they offer some vegan options (inside the mall by Mercado)…  Encanto Colombian Restaurant is open in Downtown Hermosa, offering a cuisine that most Californians have never sampled. The flavors draw from Spanish, African, and indigenous cuisine, and seasonings are mild and nuanced. On our first visit we found things running smoothly for a new restaurant, with friendly service and good food. Note – portions are gigantic! (934 Hermosa Ave., HB).., Up on the highway, the Starbird chain has opened and is already very popular. It’s a simple menu, chicken by itself or in tacos and sandwiches, fries, salad, and that’s it. Based on my experience, anybody else in the area who sells chicken sandwiches should be very nervous (429 N. PCH, HB)… And moving to the Hill, the Lunada Bay Market’s deli has proved so popular that they’ve expanded the menu and created the Lunada Kitchen. Currently they’re only open Friday through Sunday with a limited but enticing menu, but both the hours will expand soon (2201 PV Drive West, PVE)….    

Coming Attractions: Boa Steakhouse and Sushi Roku are scheduled to open this Friday in the Manhattan Village Mall. Both restaurants started out as LA-based independents, and though now part of a large operation have managed to maintain a good reputation for individual takes on upscale Japanese dining and steaks. Our area has a lot of steak and Japanese options now, and it will be interesting to see whether these develop a local following (3110 N. PCH, MB)… After months in which nothing much has happened, interior work is going on at the former Mosa. The new restaurant will be called Bolt, third in a chain of LA-based restaurants that specialize in breakfast and brunch. This one is expected to offer dinner too, but I don’t have details yet. Expect an opening in late November… You may have seen a banner announcing a “Cal Mex Gastropub” called Who Song & Larry’s on the Redondo Pier next to El Torito. Don’t plan on visiting very soon – they would only say that they hope to open by the end of the year… Work is going faster at Porterhouse in El Segundo, the former Second City, but I haven’t been able to find out their schedule. Tips, anyone?…
Event Alerts!: And there sure are a lot of them. Dine LA is in progress through October 28, and it’s a great chance to try multi course dinners at reasonable prices. I can’t go through the whole list here, but you should check it out at discoverlosangeles.com – there are splendid deals at all price points, especially if you like going out for lunch… Speaking of lunch, Slay Italian in Manhattan Beach will host a brunch with wine on October 23 to benefit the Dr. Susan Love Foundation for Breast Cancer Research. Price is $150 for a very good cause. For more information and reservations, go to malibudana.me and click the link on the front page… It’s the time of year for the annual wine and Halloween candy pairing at Uncorked, a silly event that has a devoted following. It’s on October 26 at 5 PM, and going into the evening. $25, and I’m intrigued even though I don’t like most Halloween candy. No reservations required, and I didn’t ask about costumes, but I presume you don’t need those either… If you prefer something more conventional, Paul Martin’s Restaurant on Rosecrans is offering an Orrin Swift wine dinner the same evening. Five courses are $125 plus T&T. Reserve by calling (310) 643-9300… On October 28 Fleming’s will offer a masquerade-themed wine dinner, which will include four courses with games, prizes, and surprises. $110 plus T&T, and the menu is on their website at FlemingsSteakhouse.com, as is a reservation link… Flemings menu has steak as part of one course, but PSP Steak goes all in on their Black Hawk Farms wine dinner on November 2 – there is steak in four of the five courses, and candied bacon in the bread pudding. An executive from Black Hawk Farms will be on hand to talk about the Wagyu beef raised in Kentucky, which is not the first place I think of when I hear the word Wagyu. $195, details and reservation link are on their site at pspsteak.com… And I’m only including one Halloween-themed event, the Dia De Los Muertos rooftop dinner at Shade Redondo. The strains of a mariachi band will be floating over the yacht harbor that night and an ofrenda altar will be set up, the latter a reminder of the paganism that suffuses religious traditions. There will be five courses of…something, presumably upscale Mexican food – the information isn’t on the website or reservation link, a rather unusual decision. It’s a fine restaurant, and I’m sure it will be worth trying. $110 plus T&T — click the banner on the website at rb.shadehotel.com for more…  
Sweet Move: Local chocolatier Marsatta Chocolates moved out of their old location on Anza to 1972 Del Amo, Suite D. Their new location is called a “Chocolate Experience Center” and is a place to learn about every step of the process and then take some home. Good luck in the new space, Jeffray… 
Speak Softly I have received more complaints about noisy restaurants than about all other problems combined, so was intrigued when a reader told me that someone has started a project to identify eateries where you can hear a conversation. It’s called “Find your quiet place,” and they’re mapping restaurants with low volume across the nation. I checked to see what they recommend here and was chagrined to find that they have no Los Angeles section. A company representative explained that they rely on suggestions from the public and don’t have enough yet. If you’d like to contact them, they’re at SoundPrint.co – if you all contribute, they’ll have enough entries to pass the threshold…  
And in closing: If you know a restaurant opening I might’ve missed, an upcoming culinary event, or just about anything related to food that I should cover, please send the information my way. I’m at richard@richardfoss.com. And as long as you’re on the internet, check out past restaurant reviews on our website at EasyReaderNews.com/restaurants/

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