Every surf or ocean experience is somewhat surreal. Floating on fiberglass in water, bouncing in the swell while pelicans are flying over your head and seals are swimming underneath you can make you feel like you are in a dream-state. My surf experience for the day was maybe the most surreal and mesmerizing to date.
I had been a bit nervous all week about the windy conditions that were forecasted for today. Surely enough, the stormy predictions held true to their word and I woke up to gaze out the window and see palm trees swaying back and forth, being rocked viciously by mother nature. I felt that the South Bay surf was surely a lost cause, and headed south for Doheny, where I knew the wind would be at least somewhat blocked by the harbor. I hit the 405 with Teddy, my Subaru being intermittently pelted with what seemed like golf ball sized raindrops. Pulling up to Doheny State beach, we un-excitedly feasted our eyes on a completely flat ocean — quite the opposite from the 10 foot stormsurf in the south bay. We decided that we wanted to make the most of the trip, and drove a bit further to try our luck at Trestles.
On the beginning of our walk down to what I call the “deathmarch,” (the walk to Trestles is painfully far), people were driving by staring at us like we were lunatics. Howling wind, rain, and barefoot surfers proceeding down the trail with absolutely nothing but their wetsuits and 9 foot longboards with no leash – I would have looked at me like I was crazy too. I survived almost being blown into the street (my longboard acting as a sail, pulling me all over the place) and we got down to the normally packed and crowded beach and witnessed pure Trestles it in all of its glory — with not a single soul on the beach or in the breakers. Teddy and I paddled out in the turbulent sea and went to visit Poseidon, who must’ve woken up on the wrong side of the bed today. I played it safe (well.. safer), staying on the inside and to my surprise catching a few fun peelers, while he bravely ventured deeper out to catch some scary, sizeable sets. After being dragged down the beach by the current, a little bit of fear got the best of me and I headed in, watching the confident waterman and former lifeguard skillfully catch the crazy pounders.
We sat on the beach for a bit, mesmerized by the sea and the beautiful emptiness of the beach. That image of unadulterated, magnificent coastline will last forever in my mind.
