HT Grill [RESTAURANT REVIEW]
If you’ve been around the South Bay a long time, you remember one corner in Redondo as the location of the Velvet Turtle, famous for great steaks, salad with green goddess dressing, and a calorie-intensive chocolate pie. Before that chain embarked on an ill-advised expansion that cheapened the name, the Velvet Turtle and Millie Riera’s were Redondo’s two dining showplaces, before which all others paled.
The Velvet Turtle closed in the early 80’s during an ill-advised corporate expansion, to be replaced by a few forgettable restaurants and then Legacy, which had good cooking but changed concept more often than some restaurants change table linens. The ownership changed again in 2005, when the HT Grill moved from venerable but cramped digs across the street and gave the place a startling renovation. Gone are the white walls that covered the old brickwork, the plastered ceilings and divided rooms, in favor of expanses of stonework and open beams. The once quiet room is buzzing with life, and the bar hops even on weeknights. It’s a whole new scene, albeit one with a pedigree; the menu not only has items that were popular in the old HT Grill location across the street, but favorites resurrected from the cookbooks of the Velvet Turtle.
We started a recent dinner with a mix of old and new salads – a “chopper salad” featuring the green goddess dressing that was the rage back in the 70’s, a classic Caesar that has been a staple at HT’s for years, and a new grilled romaine with apple, gorgonzola, and bacon. While the traditionalist in me was delighted to note that the green goddess is as good as ever, it doesn’t quite suit the chopped salad. The chopper includes grilled chicken, pancetta, gorgonzola, artichoke, olives, cucumber, and kidney beans, a wide array of flavors that might be better complemented by a simple oil and herb dressing. I’ll have the green goddess on a dinner salad the next time. The classic Caesar was good; a fresh, light garlicky version with plenty of cheese flavor, and the grilled romaine was just about perfect. Grilling lettuce brings out the sweetness, which in this case goes well with the tart green apple and cheese flavors, all tied together with red wine vinaigrette.
For main courses we had seared ahi tuna with sesame crust, the famous meatloaf, a pork loin in achiote chili sauce, and a daily special of beef Wellington. The tuna and pork were the standout items thanks to finely calibrated flavors. The ginger-soy glaze and sesame were perfect with the rare tuna, and the mashed potatoes that came on the side had a delicate touch of wasabi that made them a nice complement. The presentation was lovely, the flavors perfectly matched. The same could be said of the pork loin, a daily special that should be a regular item. The chili sauce was mild but flavorful, lending a smoky New Mexico-style spiciness to perfectly done meat that had a slight char from the grill.
The other two items we had were oddly unsatisfying. The meatloaf at HT Grill is an award-winning item that didn’t win over anyone at our table because it was very soft and bland – we tasted the tomato sauce it was served on and the bacon that was wrapped around the meat much more than we tasted the meat. Perhaps we caught the place on a bad day, or perhaps very bland meatloaf wins awards, but we weren’t wowed. As for the beef Wellington, a specialty of the long-departed Turtle that the Grill was featuring as a special, it was a disappointment. The genius of a beef Wellington is that a moist piece of roast beef is crusted with mushrooms (and sometimes foie gras, ham, and other ingredients), wrapped in puff pastry, and then baked so the inside is moist, the outside crisp. In this case the pastry was moist, almost pancake-like, which negated the whole idea of the dish. Our server was apologetic and told us that the kitchen was experimenting with the Wellington, and he removed it from our bill. I hope they keep trying, because I don’t know anyplace else in the South Bay that serves it regularly, and I do enjoy it when all the pieces come together.
We finished by splitting a tiramisu and a lava cake, both of which hit the spot. The tiramisu was better, a very creamy confection with a delicate flavor of chocolate – a perfect accompaniment to a stiff coffee or espresso.
Our visit happened to be on a Wednesday, when wines are marked down by 50%, so we had the chance to enjoy a very good bottle of Greg Norman Cabernet for under eighteen dollars. It’s wonderful with red meat, and almost a reason to schedule family reunions and business dinners midweek. The salads had run between six and fourteen dollars, and were served in portions suitable for two people, and the entrees were priced from fourteen to twenty-five dollars. We found the prices reasonable for the experience, good meals in a stylish room a block from the beach. Not everything was perfect, but in a kitchen that tries new items and takes some risks that can happen. We’ll still be back for the items we liked, and to try the new dishes of the day with an optimistic attitude.
The HT Grill is located at 1701 S. Catalina Avenue in Riviera Village area of Redondo Beach. Valet parking, full bar, wheelchair access good. Open for lunch and dinner daily, weekend brunch. Call 310-791-4849 for reservations.