Most Americans would pronounce Pho Show as if those two words rhymed, but depending on where you are in Vietnam, the first word is pronounced Fah or Fou. It’s probably appropriate that most who come to this restaurant mispronounce the name, because nothing here is aimed at purists. Though there is a substantial menu of Vietnamese specialties, there are almost as many Chinese dishes, plus Japanese, Thai, and Korean items.
The former fast food joint still has the open kitchen and layout of an order-at-the-counter place, but the racks of wine and modern lighting give the place a hip feel. The staff are young and enthusiastic but not experts on this cuisine; almost any question to the servers required a trip to the kitchen for an answer. This isn’t entirely bad – at least they didn’t try to make something up and see if we wouldn’t notice – but a little more training would speed the ordering process. It is especially important to know what is in dishes here because the menu states that substitutions or other special requests aren’t allowed. If you have an allergy or other food requirement, you need to be careful with your order.
The servers know their stuff very well when it comes to recommendations, because on two trips they suggested the salt-and-pepper fried items when asked what starters were best. On one trip we selected tofu, on the other chicken and potato chunks – both were battered with cornstarch, fried, and topped with a mix of finely chopped scallions, chilies, and garlic along with salt, pepper, and a dash of sugar. It hit all the notes that make Asian fast food appealing, a little sweet, a little spicy, a dash of onion and garlic sharpness, and a slice of lime on the side if you want to add a bit of tartness. I’d never get anything cooked this way as part of a to-go order because it loses crispness so quickly, but otherwise it’s a must-have. The other starters I tried here, the traditional fried eggrolls, beef salad, and the fresh crepe often called a summer roll but here called a spring roll, were decent but not outstanding. The fried roll was crisp but slightly bland, and it was served without the greens that are traditionally used to roll the eggroll into a handheld salad. There was one leaf of lettuce and two pieces of cucumber as garnish, but none of the fresh basil or mint leaves that make such a tasty package. I had the same reaction to the beef salad – although the strips of beef in a mild but tangy sauce were good, it was served over lettuce, carrot, and cucumber with none of the Southeast Asian herbs that add character.
We complemented our starters with glasses of the house pale ale and Raging Bitch Belgian-style IPA, a very unusual beer that I hadn’t tried before. It’s spicy and hoppy and a very good match with the food, and the house brand is good too. On another trip we enjoyed Strand Amber, a local pour that also has the characteristics that go well with this cuisine. Someone at this restaurant understands food and beverage pairing, which is rare at places with a modest price point.
Over three meals I have tried main courses of Singapore noodles, Korean-style short ribs, shaken beef, string beans with garlic, and of course a bowl of pho. The most successful item was the shaken beef, so named because the beef is tossed in a wok with onion and bell pepper and then shaken vigorously to coat it with spices. This is a classic Vietnamese dish with bold flavors, and although the version at Pho Show was a little on the mild side, it had the essential character of the traditional version. The Korean short ribs were among the best I’ve had in the SouthBay, with the rich caramelized flavor and slight spiciness of the real article. Korean-style beef ribs have become a popular item in Vietnamese communities in America – the sweet and spicy flavors are similar to many Vietnamese meat dishes.
The green beans with garlic fell just short of greatness because they were slightly overdone – a minute makes a difference in wok cooking. The pho I had ordered – beef broth with noodles, vegetables, brisket, and steak – was an enormous portion, properly garnished with basil, leafy herbs, and lime. As with some items I have tried here, the flavor was a bit tame compared to the robust version I’d expect in Gardena or Little Saigon; there was less of the white pepper, star anise, and sharp spices than usual. Though those usually bold flavors were used with caution, it was still a good bowl of soup, with a meaty, rich broth and a sizable portion of meat.
The only item that fell well below our expectations was the Singapore noodles, which took cautious spicing to an extreme degree. Singapore noodles are thin noodles tossed with yellow curry, vegetables, onion, bean sprouts, and usually peanuts, a legacy of the Muslim Indian traders who explored Southeast Asia long before the Europeans arrived. They’re usually one of the more strongly flavored items on a Chinese or Vietnamese menu, but the yellow curry flavor here was so muted that we thought the wrong dish had been delivered. In the other dishes that had been prepared with muted spicing the essential character of the dish was intact, but this was so timid that it wasn’t recognizably the same dish.
Meals at Pho Show are typically under $25 per person for a full meal with beer or wine. The service is quick and I’d consider this place for a pre-theater or other meal where speed is important. Pho Show serves good food fast, not fast food, and they have a lot to offer.
Pho Show is at 1617 South Pacific Coast Highway in Redondo Beach, next to Riviera Mexican Food. Parking in rear, entrance off Avenue I. Open 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. and 5 p.m. to 12 a.m. Monday to Saturday (closing at 10 p.m. on Sunday). Corkage fee $10; wheelchair access okay. Vegetarian/vegan friendly. Partial menu online, more on blackboard in restaurant. (310) 792-7800 or go to PhoShow.net.Â
