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Best of the BeachIzaka-ya by Katsu-ya – For the first time since we started the sushi category, the winner is a restaurant specializing in something else. Izaka-ya by Katsu-ya specializes in Japanese tapas but does have a sushi bar with some innovative item, and our readers like their modern ideas about this cuisine. This is not sushi for purists – yellowtail sashimi never had a jalapeno glaze before California chefs got in the act, nor was fresh tuna perched atop crispy rice with a mysterious tasty dressing. The classics are here too – agedashi tofu, uni and monkfish in season, and of course whatever is fresh at the fish market. Come at lunch and try their sushi as part of a bargain bento box, or at dinner when things will be more pricey but the variety is at its best…

Izaka-ya by Katsu-ya: 1133 Highland Ave., MB. (310) 796-1888. www.katsuya-group.com

Runner-up: Sushi Sei, 1040 Hermosa Ave., HB. (310) 379-6900.

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