The Hibachi: old Manhattan meets new Hermosa
Bob Elling, Hibachi co-owner with Kate Marjaniemi, welcomes guests with a big smile. If you grew up in Manhattan Beach, you might remember a restaurant that was synonymous with Oriental mystery, a place where low tables were separated by paper screens adorned with Japanese-style paintings. It was everyone’s favorite date spot, thanks to the seductively low light, exotic atmosphere, and strong drinks served by waiters who rarely checked driver’s licenses. Couples grew close by candlelight beneath a lovely brush and ink painting of a monkey that dated back to the 1930s, intoxicated by the sensuous atmosphere and powerful mai tais. That establishment expired in 2000, but a former manager had a dream of carrying on the tradition and reopened in Hermosa a few years later. I went there when the place was new and initially wasn’t impressed – I think I was hoping for the atmosphere of the old place as well as the food, and the funky surf dive style of the new establishment put me off. A recent visit has given me a different perspective, namely that the old Hibachi fit the old Manhattan Beach, the new Hibachi fits the new Hermosa. This isn’t to say that it’s raucous in the manner of the…
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