Pie Pie Pie: A new Redondo Beach restaurant specializes in pies, every which way [RESTAURANT REVIEW]
Kyoung Kang at work in his kitchen at Pie Pie Pie in Redondo Beach. He credits his wife, Euni Kim, for the deliciousness of the crusts in his savory and dessert pies. “She is a pastry chef with culinary training,” Kyoung said. “I cook the savory pies and helped create the recipe, but the crust is her creation for savory and sweet pies.” Photo
I remember the first time I saw the sign for Pie Pie Pie, because it brought such a smile to my face. I immediately pulled my car into the parking lot not knowing exactly what they served, but that I was going to buy some. I do like a good pie, and I was about to be in the presence of a specialist.
The specialist turned out to be a cheerful Korean gentleman named Kyoung, and while he makes dessert pies and pizzas, the unique items are his savory vegetable and meat pies. On that particular trip I tried a chicken curry pie and found it to have a buttery, flaky crust filled with chicken in delicate and mild curried gravy.
This type of pie is not Indian, but a product of a different tradition; it was almost exactly like the meat pies that are popular snacks in Australia and New Zealand. As it happened I had returned from a vacation to both countries only days before, so could vouch for the authenticity.
Besides chicken curry, Pie Pie Pie’s savory offerings are beef and onion, Italian sausage and peppers, or a vegetarian pie with egg, cheese, mushrooms, spinach, sundried tomato and basil. I’ve had all four and will be having them all again.
They’re small but filling, and one of these with a salad or appetizer is a nice meal. Which brings me to the other things they do here, some of which are successful and some not.
The hot wings are in the successful column, available regular or boneless and in either a buffalo or Korean style. They’re deep-fried to order and then tossed in a moderate portion of sauce, served with celery sticks and ranch dressing on the side. The medium buffalo sauce had enough heat to be assertive but wasn’t fiery, and the Korean version wasn’t pouring on the heat either, but both were flavorful. The salads are large and pretty standard, though we found the Caesar to have a small portion of very timid dressing.
Where the kitchen seemed to lose its way was in their pastas. The baked ziti was a giant portion of pasta that had been topped with a pink pizza sauce and mozzarella and then put in an oven for a short time. The sauce and cheese mix melted together but never formed the crust and firm texture that is the whole reason for baking pasta. It didn’t help that the sauce was a bit thin and bland compared to a traditional marinara, though a shaker of oregano on the table helped this somewhat.
That sauce was better when used to top a pizza, and they do make good medium-crust pies here. The crust has the risen bread character rather than being cracker-like, and it’s firm enough that even relatively moist toppings don’t soak it. Those toppings were used generously but not lavishly, and the result is reliably good.
Whatever you have for dinner, save room for some pie for dessert – that is, if they have any. Their dessert pies are so popular that they sell out sometimes, and on one visit I looked forward to having a slice of the banana cream pie I saw in the case. There had been three-quarters of a pie there when I arrived, but it was all gone by the time I was ready to order. Snap up a piece of the pecan pie if it’s there, ordering as you place your dinner order, because it’s their standout. Pecan pie is often sugary, but this has a wonderful nutty flavor with balanced sweetness.
The dining area at Pie Pie Pie is small, just three not particularly comfortable booths, so most people get their orders to go. The meat and vegetable pies travel well, which is part of the reason they’re so popular in the Antipodes. Just about every roadside store and gas station there has a selection of hot pies available, and if they become a fast food staple here it will be the best snack food idea we’ve borrowed in years. Whether or not they become a nationwide craze, Redondo Beach has them now at Pie Pie Pie, and you should get some, get some, get some.
Pie Pie Pie is at 610 Torrance Boulevard in Redondo Beach. Open daily except Tue: 11:30 a.m. – 9 p.m., delivery available. Parking lot, no alcohol served, some vegetarian items. Phone: (310) 316-5111.