Second story, first class: Chef Vania Almeida has a genius for combinations
Second Story executive chef Vania Almeida. Photo (civiccouch.com)
On the other hand, eye appeal can certainly whet your appetite and change your expectations. The people who designed Second Story at the Belamar Hotel certainly understand that idea. The space-age retro look is delightful, oval tables at curved banquettes giving you a sense of a 1960s vision of the future. I watched a few plates go by as I studied my menu and could tell that the high concept extended to the food presentation, and I wondered if they could possibly pull it off.
Our server Genka was both pleasant and patient as we peppered her with questions about the specials, wines, and favorite items. We took several of her recommendations when we ordered. Though there were enough interesting starters that we could have just ordered an array of small plates for a meal, we elected to share a starter of homemade potato chips and a beet and quinoa salad before our entrees.
I had almost regretted ordering the chips before they arrived, as other items seemed like they might be a better test of the kitchen. But once they arrived I was pleased. They were fresh from the fryer and topped with grated parmesan cheese, and the combination of the cheese and sauce on hot, crisp chips was very good. This was well thought out and executed though not wildly unusual. But the next item we tried showed what this kitchen is really capable of. Most beet salads pair roasted beets with mild vegetables or nuts and luxuriate in the sweetness. This one added nutty quinoa and Brussels sprout leaves with parsley oil for a much more interesting effect. The vegetal flavor of oil, micro-greens, and sprout leaves created complex effects in every bite. Though the portion looked small, it was enough for several bites each, and I’d order it again any day.
By chance we were dining on Wednesday, when all wines are half-price, including from the good by-the-glass list. This made our glasses of Prosecco, Coppola Chardonnay, and Pushback Sauvignon Blanc a real deal at between $3.50 and $6 each, and would have meant incredible deals on some good bottles had we been so inclined. The Pushback was a bit too light for the salad but would have been great with shellfish, and I’ll have to try that pairing sometime.
Though we were delighted with the food so far, we were less enamored of the furniture – the bench seat was very hard, and the curve of the table didn’t quite match that of the seat so that we were at varying distances from our food. We snagged some whimsical pillows that looked like shaggy blue marshmallows and used them to make things a good deal more comfortable, but will probably sit at one of the more conventional square tables on our next visit.
For main courses we had selected horseradish-crusted halibut, roast chicken with garlic sauce, shrimp and artichoke hearts, and achiote-marinated steak with sautéed corn and pea shoot tendrils. They were served in high style arrangements, but the focus on flavor was not lost – everything on each plate served a purpose. The horseradish crust on the fish maintained a delicate balance, tangy but not hot, with a luscious mushroom risotto a nice counterpoint and sliced roasted beets as a third component. There was enough going on here that we were still discovering combinations of texture and flavor in the last bites.
The meats were just as successful – fire-grilled chicken in a mild garlic sauce with small shrimp topped with asparagus and a frizzle of fried shredded onion, with steamed herbed potatoes and grilled tiny tomatoes on the side. The mildly spicy steak came with an unusual pasilla chile risotto, a use for green chile that I had never seen before, with the pea tendrils smartly left unseasoned so the vegetable flavor acted as a hot salad. One of the people at the table mentioned that he found the corn a bit salty, so Genka brought out a replacement portion even though the rest of us thought it was just fine.
We asked her recommendation on the wines again, and she did not disappoint. The Crrios de Susana Argentione Malcec was fine with the spicy steak, Tolosa unoaked Cardonnnay with the fish, and she offered a Battaglini Zinfandel that wasn’t on the menu as a companion to the chicken. Apparently the winemaker had been at the restaurant that evening and they were trying it out. Based on my experience I hope they make it a regular.
We were thinking of ordering a glass of dessert wine to follow, but found this part of the menu to be the only section out of balance – a few tawny ports and sherries, two Moscatos and only one red, which wasn’t one of my favorites. We finished by sharing a bread pudding instead and were pleased by the crisp top and nicely calibrated bourbon-caramel sauce.
Our lavish dinner for three ran $136 with six glasses of wine. Though it would have been more had we not taken advantage of the wine special, we would have counted it a success at their regular prices.
Chef Vania Almeida has a genius for creating combinations and rare skill at techniques. I’ll be interested to see how she continues to develop her ideas. Challenging ideas and warm, comfortable flavors are coexisting nicely on these plates. This restaurant hidden on the second floor of a hotel is worth a special trip.
Second Story is in the Belamar Hotel. 3501 Sepulveda. entrance on Oak Avenue off Valley Drive. Valet or street parking. Elevator available, wheelchair access good, some vegan & vegetarian items. Open for breakfast and dinner only. full bar. (310) 750-0312 for reservations. Menu at secondstorryrestaurant.com. B