Richard Foss

HT Grill [RESTAURANT REVIEW]

HT Grill moved from venerable but cramped digs across the street and gave the place a startling renovation. Gone are the white walls that covered the old brickwork, the plastered ceilings and divided rooms, in favor of expanses of stonework and open beams. The once quiet room is buzzing with life, and the bar hops even on weeknights. It’s a whole new scene, albeit one with a pedigree; the menu not only has items that were popular in the old HT Grill location across the street, but favorites resurrected from the cookbooks of the Velvet Turtle.

 Richard Foss

Frascati [RESTAURANT REVIEW]

Last year Frascati moved to smaller premises in Rolling Hills Estates, an inconspicuous location in the Avenues shopping center. The new place seats about 70 people, less than half the size of the previous restaurant, but it’s a better fit. The feel is authentically Italian, the service assured, and while a few changes could be made in the food, overall we were satisfied.

 Richard Foss

Saluzzi, Rancho Palos Verdes

The supremacy of mini-malls has created a situation not unlike that a small child experiences in the days just before Christmas. That wrapped shoebox might contain a pair of socks, a copy of some video game you’re already tired of playing, or the electronic gadget you’ve been gazing at longingly in the store window for […]

 Richard Foss

North Beach Deli

As the great critic Calvin Trillin noted, some people find nothing more exciting than discovering great eateries in hidden locations. I’m one of the aficionados – I’ve delighted in meals at New Sammy’s Cowboy Bistro in Ashland, which looks like a derelict bar from the outside but serves adventurous modern cuisine, and Martin’s in Edinburgh, […]

 Richard Foss

Annapurna Gardens [RESTAURANT REVIEW]

For many years I’ve enjoyed trips to Little Bombay, the area in north Orange County that boasts a huge South Asian community. A few minutes off the 91 freeway is a world where saris are everyday wear, jewelry shops are stacked with intricately worked gold, and men in turbans and gorgeously patterned silk share the […]

 Richard Foss

New Tony’s aka Tony’s Fish Market [RESTAURANT REVIEW]

New Tony’s aka Tony’s Fish Market [RESTAURANT REVIEW]

One of the most enduringly popular restaurants in Redondo Beach isn’t listed in the phone book – at least, it isn’t listed by the name that everybody actually uses. Tell any local that you went to New Tony’s and they know exactly where you’re talking about. If you just say you went to Tony’s, people […]

 Richard Foss

Mickie Finnz [RESTAURANT REVIEW]

The easygoing vibe is as much an attraction as the food and beverage, and it’s no surprise that the same enjoyable atmosphere can be found at the more upscale HT Grill. It can also be found at the newest of Hennessey’s ventures, the cheerful tropical-themed joint known as Mickie Finnz. Where the Hennessey’s Taverns make at least a nod toward the Auld Sod of Ireland and the HT Grill is modern Californian, Mickie Finnz is a loving recreation of a surf bar, palm fronds, bamboo, and all.

 Richard Foss

Petros [RESTAURANT REVIEW]

For exotic cuisines, the road to acceptance in America is paved with fast food. My Virginia-born wife’s first taste of Mexican food was at a Taco Bell, and a strange and foreign cuisine it was to her three decades ago. Now she devours obscure Oaxacan and Yucatecan specialties and knows the vocabulary of cabrito and […]

 Richard Foss

Matisse [RESTAURANT REVIEW]

This is not to say that the cooking here is purely French or suited to the peasant palate – prime steaks like the ones served here are hard to find in France at any price, and truffled lobster salad and Thai spring rolls aren’t the diet of a country farmer. My wife and I were momentarily tempted by a six course tasting menu that sounded delightful, but we decided that we didn’t have the time or appetite on this particular evening.

 Richard Foss

La Sosta [RESTAURANT REVIEW]

Among the more detached bits of Italy is Venice, which has been an independent country or a subject state of Austria for most of its history. This is reflected in its cuisine, which is more subtle than the dishes of the south and has more seafood and rice dishes than the west. Venetian food is relatively little known in America, but Hermosa’s La Sosta is doing their best to change that.

 Richard Foss

Crème De La Crepe [RESTAURANT REVIEW]

Crème De La Crepe [RESTAURANT REVIEW]

Hermosa Beach’s little piece of France is Crème De La Crepe, a restaurant that has been around for a few years but changed ownership in 2004. I had liked the place under the previous management despite occasional slow service, and was in the process of writing a review when I heard that it had been sold. I decided to wait a while to see how it changed, and I’m glad I did, because it is now far better. The crepes that I enjoyed are still here, but the menu has been expanded to include bistro favorites and the service is far better.

 Richard Foss

Admiral Risty [RESTAURANT REVIEW]

Admiral Risty [RESTAURANT REVIEW]

The place that became famous for great cioppino, fresh seafood, and an unrivalled ocean view still has all three great items. Manager Wayne Judah still looks much the same, having been there so long that if the building ever changes hands, he may be included in the lease. For those who crave a bit of certainty in an uncertain world, the Admiral Risty is an oasis.

 Richard Foss

Lido di Manhattan Beach [RESTAURANT REVIEW]

The Lido Island near Venice is one of the most famously picturesque places in the world, a seven-mile stretch of villas and sparkling beaches. The name has become such a symbol of luxury that restaurants and nightclubs around the world have adopted it, hoping to capture a hint of the glamour. Parisians eat escargot and see expensive shows with minimally costumed starlets at their Lido, residents of Springfield, Massachusetts nibble Clams Casino at theirs, and locals in Riga dine on Latvian and international food in an atmosphere which I can only imagine is very much unlike Venice.

 Richard Foss

Buona Sera [RESTAURANT REVIEW]

The restaurant in the South Bay that currently has the biggest buzz is Buona Sera, the Italian newcomer located on a quiet side street in Riviera Village. I have heard from several readers who called it the best Italian restaurant in a wide radius, which is no small boast given the competition. Having visited the restaurant, I can confirm that the cooking and creativity are top-notch, and while not everything is perfect, it is well worth a visit.

 Richard Foss

Beach City Grill [RESTAURANT REVIEW]

The sign in the window says “Live Music,” though nobody remembers when they last had any. The tables are topped with beach towels instead of tablecloths. Some items have been on the “Daily Specials” menu for years, and others are available even though they don’t appear on any menu at all. Opening and closing hours are posted, but to quote a recent hit movie, “they’re not really rules, more like guidelines.”